Umbrellas / 9.3 / Umbrellas

28 May 2023 – As in: umbrellas to start, then 9.3 km of downtown walkabout, and umbrellas to finish.

We agree to meet under the umbrellas that, with seasonal variations, make a canopy for Bill Curtis Square right behind the Yaletown-Roundhouse station for Skytrain.

We have only one destination in mind — a specific café considerably off to the north-west of our current False Creek-ish location, overlooking Coal Harbour on Burrard Inlet. Apart from that… well, let curiosity and our impulsive feet set our path.

Feet lead us north on Hamilton Street, among old Yaletown warehouse complexes now spiffily repurposed — as are the railway ties that now serve as benches along the way. Doubly repurposed: old growth forest timbers cut into railway ties, then repurposed for structural use in these warehouses, and now re-repurposed into handsome benches.

My friend’s back informs us that the decorative metal support is at exactly the right angle for lumbar comfort.

North of Nelson, tiny Yaletown Park — just 0.17 hectare (= 0.4 acre = ohhhh, handkerchief size), and proof that tiny downtown parkettes punch ‘way above their weight. A few towering horse chestnut trees, a few old concrete chunks repurposed as benches; that’s all, and it’s welcoming, calming, silent.


Twice as large & exponentially more dramatic, sθәqәlxenәm ts’exwts’áxwi7 — or, Rainbow Park — at Smithe & Richards is the City’s newest park. Website bumf proclaims it is “a park of the future, with innovative design, dynamic play areas, art installations, and multi-dimensional walkways that go far beyond the traditional concept of a park.” PR language if ever you read it… and, you know what? they’re right. This park is all of that. We wandered its levels, as entranced as any child, and revelled in the interaction of ages, cultures and interests, all welcome and all accommodated.

Still on Richards & approaching West Georgia, more downtown amusement through more downtown interplay, this time of building design, plantings and reflections. We know we’re supposed to hate English Ivy for its destructive ways with building surfaces… but, damn, it looks so good.

From macro to micro, from decorative to utilitarian: a worker above Granville at West Hastings shows a cranky traffic light who’s boss.

On & around & on some more & finally west along Burrard Inlet into the Coal Harbour area. Lunch, coffee and a nod to the Coal Harbour Marina…

as we reverse gears: from zigzag north-west to zigzag south-east, starting right here on Nicola Street.

Fresh baby-spring leaves, glowing in the afternoon sun…

and, one block farther south, a fresh new condo building mural (The Light Beyond the Mountains, KC Hall).

My friend peels off once we hit Pacific Blvd — places to go, things to do — but I saunter on.

Down through Sunset Beach Park, north side of False Creek, for yet another look at my all-time favourite Vancouver Biennale sculpture: 217.5 Arc X 13 by French artist Bernar Venet (no “d”, it really is Bernar). With the Burrard Bridge as background.

On along the False Creek seawall, into George Wainborn Park, full of grass and trees and shrubs and plantings and a handsome water feature, with another dramatic apartment-tower mural to set it all off.

The sign warns us that “this decorative water feature is not intended for human access.” The gull is doubly indifferent. He can’t read and, anyway, he’s not human.

I am human, and I keep my hands and feet where they belong.

Which is to wander yet more of the seawall before cutting back north to Pacific Blvd, where it intersects with Davie Street.

I wave fingers at those umbrellas, tucked away behind the Skytrain station…

and hop a bus for home.


  • WALKING… & SEEING

    "Traveller, there is no path. Paths are made by walking" -- Antonio Machado (1875-1939)

    "The voyage of discovery is not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes" -- Marcel Proust (1871-1922)

    "A city is a language, a repository of possibilities, and walking is the act of speaking that language, of selecting from those possibilities" -- Rebecca Solnit, "Wanderlust: A History of Walking"

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