Right ‘Round the Elephant’s Head

26 April 2026 – Not a real elephant. But play along with me on this, will you? Imagine the side view of an elephant’s head — one with an unusually large eye and an unfortunately short and lumpy trunk.

Now look at this map of Stanley Park.

I hope you’re laughing.

It’s a bright, mild, breezy day, and I am about to walk the Seawall right ’round the elephant’s head, starting at the black-starred “0 KM” marker at the base of his thick neck, down there to the right of Lost Lagoon.

Signs remind us to play nicely with the other children.

Halfway along the underside of that lumpy trunk, I take a picture of the seabed exposed by low tide…

and hear a puzzled little voice behind me ask, “Daddy, where’s the water?” Daddy meets the challenge: with child-appropriate vocabulary and to child-appropriate length, he explains the concept of tides. “Oh!” she cries, very pleased. We all move on.

I pass HMCS Discovery, out there on the Deadman’s Island military reserve, admiring both its own dignity and, to the left, the silhouette of the Convention Centre roof-top “sails.”

Soon after, I notice something else — first a diver-below warning flag out in the water, and then the diver herself at water’s edge, working with a colleague to hand her oxygen tank up to waiting hands above.

I ask; she explains: routine monitoring of the kelp beds. She grins at my next question. “Yes,” she says, “they look healthy.”

A float plane flies still-low over the water, snarling its way into the sky.

Later, in the photo, I see that bird upper left, already soaring high. Silently.

Soon I’m at Brockton Point, the tip of the elephant’s stubby trunk. Across Burrard Inlet, gleaming piles of yellow sulphur in the Port’s North Vancouver terminals…

and at my feet a plaque reminding me that while the sulphur (from Alberta) is the visually dramatic export, those terminals handle so much more — including millions of tons of potash (Saskatchewan), coal (BC), petroleum products and concentrates, all brought here for export to six continents.

I’m now walking the upper side of the trunk, all along Burrard Inlet. I pause a moment, mesmerized for once not by natural phenomena but by a cultural phenomenon of our times. I watch a couple of intense young podcasters as they set up their next production.

Red Shirt is rehearsing her lines, fists clenched for emphasis; Black Shirt is twiddling and re-twiddling her hair. A moment later they are posed before the camera, about to emote, their lips carefully stretched far enough to approximate smiles but not far enough to (gasp) cause any wrinkles.

As I move on, sternly reminding myself not to judge, I overhear a woman’s remark to her male companion as they walk the other way. She is, or is not, passing judgment. You decide. “I really admire your ambition and your determination, but sometimes… sometimes it’s OK to slow down.” I don’t hear his reply.

I see Lumberman’s Arch to my left, don’t veer inland to revisit it. Soon after, I stop for a modest little sundial, currently benefiting from all the sun it needs to do its job.

I have to wait my turn: a guy in a Blue Jays cap is checking the sundial against his watch. “It’s an hour out,” he announces. Then he wags a finger to withdraw that remark, and we both laugh. “Yeah,” I say. “It’s on nature’s time, not on daylight-saving.” He walks on, I take a photo and, since there’s no way to avoid shadows, I decide to make them a feature.

I am being kinder to this sundial than is the North American Sundial Society, which puts technical expertise behind its conclusion that this “once very beautiful” sundial is now in “poor condition.”

As I work my way toward the top of the elephant’s head, I get frequent glimpses of Lion’s Gate Bridge, each one a little closer.

And, then, I’m right under it.

So much ocean, out there on my right-hand side. It’s easy to forget there is also so much forest on my left-hand side.

At 400 hectares (about 1,000 acres), Stanley Park is some 20% larger than Central Park in NYC.

I’m now past Prospect Point, starting down the back side of the elephant’s head along English Bay. Mostly shade, and breezy. Some dramatic hits of sunshine slicing through…

but mostly, visuals be damned! It’s just a chilly reminder of the difference sunshine vs shade makes to ambient temperature.

I pass Siwash Rock, an ancient sea stack and an important cultural site for the Coast Salish peoples, noticing both the rock and the line of freighters behind it, out there in the Port Authority’s parking lot.

It’s only as I pass beside the rock that I notice that the Douglas fir on top appears dead — and it’s only back home, later, I learn that the tree has already been replaced several times in the past dozen years or so, a victim to storms.

Third Beach! I’m mid-way down the back of the elephant’s head.

A short off-ramp leads to some food stalls, already open for business. It’s a popular refueling point for walkers & cyclists, and I join them. A bit later, happy and re-energized, I drop back down to the Seawall, with a backward, grateful glance up to those red umbrellas and all that they offer.

Just to add to my pleasure: a Great Blue Heron, close to shore.

Everyone stops to admire. Even the chatter-boxes fall silent. One man mouths “Beautiful!” at me and we nod at each other.

Somewhere between Third and Second beaches, I share a bench with the spirit of (so says the plaque) one Henri Félix Bonay. I count 15 freighters, out there in the parking lot.

It’s an impressive number, but not as impressive as the number attached to M. Bonay. According to dates on the plaque, he lived to 103.

Curve upon curve in the Seawall, vista upon vista. I am now beyond Second Beach, with its open-air swimming pool, well down the English Bay side of the elephant’s thick neck. I look back, this time following my ears not my feet.

Salsa music! Somewhere out there, on one of those freighters, it’s party time. Or perhaps it’s chore time, but with music to make the work more agreeable.

I see city streets above me. I’m about to leave Stanley Park for the ribbon of English Bay Beach Park…

its sands on view to the right of this map.

Good-bye, elephant.

I cross over to Morton Park, spend a few moments with the lads of A-Maze-ing Laughter...

and make my way home.

That Nice Mr. H

21 July 2025 – Busy morning, the day is clipping along, but surely there’s time for a short afternoon walk? I think False Creek (yet again), and then try to freshen the idea with a new combination of component parts.

Cranky Self objects: “I’ve already done all that!” Philosophic Self saves the day, quotes that nice Mr. Heraclitus: “You cannot step in the same river twice.”

Albeit by attribution, and much translated and much paraphrased, but the idea is clear. Everything (you included) is always all new, so go get it.

I haul out my much-creased False Creek map, and make a sort-of plan.

Walk down to The Village ferry dock (south-east end of False Creek, by Olympic Village Square); ferry to David Lam Park dock; walk on west along this portion of Vancouver’s Seawall, on past George Wainborn Park; then up-over the Granville Street bridge; down-around Granville Loop Park… and whatever.

The day is so mid-summer!

Music festival in the City Centre Artist Lodge forecourt as I walk past; patio umbrellas shading crowds on down Quebec & Ontario streets; and here in Olympic Village Square as well…

keeping all these customers cool, as well as one lop-eared dog (front & centre).

Onto an Aquabus, which is surprisingly empty until we stop at Yaletown Dock and pick up an extended family of Brazilian tourists. As we pull away, the driver, for fee-setting purposes, turns his head to quiz them on destination and demographics.

“Round-trip to Granville Island, six adults, two seniors and one child,” says the matriarch. She’s prompt with the data, but loses the credit-card quick-draw contest with one of her sons. She plays to her audience with a “What-can-I-do?” gesture, and is rewarded with amused laughter.

I hop off at David Lam; they carry on to the tourist (& resident) attraction that we call an “island,” even though it isn’t, not quite.

I’m always amazed at the diversity of traffic on and in the water — everything from whopping private vessels in the marinas to ferries to kayaks/dragon boats/paddle-boards to wildlife — and nobody seems to hit anybody else.

Even when they’re a couple moving very slowly on an isolated little paddle-board.

I turn my attention landward.

Thistles old & new, backed by ripening blackberries…

which cause a passing teen to tell her boyfriend about the berry patch behind her house, when she was growing up. “They’re awfully bitter until they’re really ripe,” she warns him.

The Seawall, like False Creek, has a mixed-use culture. Pedestrians here; cyclists there. In between David Lam & George Wainborn parks, I also get a good look at the Granville Street bridge, up ahead.

Closer still, almost opposite Granville Island, a good look at Giants — the six concrete silos painted for the 2014-16 Vancouver Biennale by the Brazilian twins known as OSGEMEOS, and now a lasting icon in the Biennale’s Open Air Museum.

This north-facing façade in shadows, mid-afternoon, but compelling even so.

Once I’m almost beneath the bridge, my next challenge is to find my way onto it.

Please, you’re thinking, how hard can that be? Not impossible, I grant you, but it does involve discovering that the west-side pedestrian path is closed for repairs, and orienteering my way up-along Weedland…

aka Waiting-For-Development-Land, to find the east-side path.

Which I do.

So here I am, heading toward centre bridge. With an overhead view of Creek traffic and a different angle on Giant.

Almost directly overhead, a reminder that this is a working concrete facility, not just a mural backdrop.

Starting down the bridge’s southern slope, I look back. Now I can enjoy the Giant‘s sunny faces and the long eastern view of False Creek behind them.

Over land now, over the Granville Island Kids Market and playground, backing onto Alder Bay.

More orienteering required, to get myself off this bridge!

I place my faith in this zebra crossing over these lanes, then this path and down these steps, and yes! it works.

I’m in Granville Loop Park, with a waterfall sculpture that reminds us yet again that, all those centuries ago, Heraclitus got it right. An ever-constant “V” of water, created by ever-changing water molecules, in ever-flowing cascades from the two upper corners.

Across the kiddy play area, with the yellow Coyotes in Area sign to my right and tennis players straight ahead…

and down and around and out to the West 2nd bus stop…

where, from a shady bench, I look up at the bridge I have just crossed.

“Heritage”… and Heritage

17 August 2024 – Nothing as grand as the slippery nature of abstract nouns is on my mind. Not even the nature of heritage, within that slippery world.

I’ve simply decided to go look at the very specific, very tangible, very proper-noun Barclay Heritage Square that I’ve just noticed to the right of the caption WEST END on my Downtown Vancouver Walking Map. My route develops from there. I continue down Nicola to English Bay and along the Seawall to (bottom-centre of map) the David Lam Dock on False Creek.

It’s only after all that, that I have my moment of linguistic/philosophical fuss about the meaning of words.

Back to the beginning.

I’m at Broughton & Haro, north-east corner of Barclay Heritage Square, an enclave designated under the National Trust for Canada that preserves 12 Edwardian-era homes and woods in combination with an adjacent City park.

The houses are lived in…

and the woodland now contains a children’s playground, used by residents…

as well as families from the modern condo towers you can see in the background — the kind of towers now increasingly dominant in the West End environment.

For no particular reason, I make Nicola my route on south to the water. It rewards me immediately. I’m already a fan of Little Free Library kiosks & their unofficial equivalents, so I gurgle happily at the sight of this Pet Food Pantry, just past Barclay.

Wet & tinned dog & cat food are welcome donations, ditto dog & cat toys and accessories, but please nothing large and nothing for other small animals: “We don’t have the space.”

One more block, and here’s the Vancouver Mural Festival 2020 tribute (by Annie Chen & Carson Ting) to Joe Fortes, the City’s first official lifeguard.

In 1986 he was also named Vancouver’s Citizen of the Century by the Vancouver Historical Society, and for good cause — a Trinidadian immigrant, Fortes spent years unofficially guarding the beach and rescuing people before receiving the official appointment.

The Nelson-to-Comox block down Nicola is friendly underfoot…

and bright with flowers on vintage apartment balconies overhead.

The day grows steadily warmer. I am ever more appreciative of the shade offered by street-side trees, sometimes combined with lush ferns, as in this display near Pendrell…

and sometimes high over bare earth, as in this half-block interruption of Nicola’s vehicular status between Pendrell and See-em-ia Lane.

Yet even barren like this, it is a welcome space, a little spot just for people, very neighbourhood. The lane title is part of the charm: like other area lanes, it honours area history, in this case Mary See-em-ia, granddaughter of Chief Joe Capilano and a Squamish Nation matriarch.

A reminder as I cross Davie Street of real-estate trends…

and later a reminder, down at Harwood, of developer/cultural handshakes, here in the form of this Beyond the Mountains mural commissioned by the builder from Heiltsuk artist KC Hall.

On downhill to the water. I’m now at the foot of Nicola, about to emerge onto Beach Avenue, bordering Second Beach.

Apartments of various eras face the water, dozing in the afternoon sun…

and “open-air museum” installations, courtesy of the Vancouver Biennale, are as much part of the beach scenery as flowers, palm trees and sand.

I first pass Dennis Oppenheim’s Engagement

and then, as I walk east along the Seawall…

I come to my all-time favourite, Bernar Venet’s 217.5 Arc X 13.

Not much shade, here on the Seawall.

I pause under handy palm trees to cool off, agree with a bemused pair of Austrian tourists that outdoor palms are somehow not what we expect to see in Canada…

loiter under the next cluster of friendly palms to watch a mother finally tear her toddler away from these lifeboats and lead the child on down to the water…

and then buy myself a rum & raisin waffle cone at the Sunset Beach concession stand…

and find yet more shade in which to enjoy it.

I even manage to eat it all without dribbling any down my arm. (Live long enough, and you acquire a few Life Skills.)

Enough blazing sunshine. I forsake the Seawall to climb uphill to Beach Ave. and the shade offered by its trees. It gives me a distant view of Squamish artist Chrystal Sparrow’s mural on the Sunset Beach sport court, currently being repainted…

and a close-up of the mossy walls of the Vancouver Aquatic Centre as I carry on east.

But then, somewhere between George Wainborn Park and David Lam Park — bottom-centre of that first Walking Map image, if you care to scroll back up — I return to the Seawall and False Creek.

Where I am first amused by this tiny, very unofficial, birdhouse hanging from an official Seawall tree…

and soon afterwards hopeful of a ferry ride home from the David Lam Dock.

Look at this: two ferries converging on the dock (left & right, the rival Aquabus and False Creek lines respectively), eager to pick me up.

But, no, we are at cross-purposes. I want east; they are both headed west to Granville Island.

They assure me an east-bound boat will come by soon. One does. It then steers a slow zigzag route, meeting rider needs — which gives me time to think about “heritage.”

What counts, what doesn’t? In today’s walk, did only the very official and historically designated Barclay Heritage Square count? Or all of it?

The online Cambridge Dictionary gives me the answer I realize I want: heritage consists of “features belonging to the culture of a particular society.”

Yes. With that kind of latitude, it all counts.

From the designated Edwardian homes to the Fortes mural to “hi” on a sidewalk and a Pet Food Pantry; from ice cream and real-estate trends and Biennale art to lifeboats and palm trees and a silly little birdhouse and rival ferry lines.

All of it.

3 for 3 for 3

20 May 2024 – Three days of a holiday weekend; three outings; three images for each.

Friday, Sunset Beach, English Bay Seawall

We’re walking the Seawall along English Bay toward Stanley Park and stop — as always! — to admire Berard Venet’s Vancouver Biennale sculpture” 217.5 Arc X 13.

Thirteen arcs of unpainted corten steel, each curved, as the title explains, to 217.5 degrees. Entirely static, endlessly dynamic, always welcoming.

We watch this little girl explore the sculpture…

and then follow her lead, offering those 217.5° arcs our own 360° tribute.

By now the sculpture, acquired in 2007, fully illustrates artist Venet’s point re his choice of material:

unpainted, the steel “facilitates an interaction with the natural elements.”

At their centre, the arcs form an embrace. At their tips…

a continuing dance of call and response.

Sunday, outside Engine 374 Pavilion, Roundhouse Community Centre

I learned about this event during my recent crosstown walk on Davie Street, and here I am, happy to join the anniversary celebrations. On 23 May, 1887, steam engine 374 pulled the first scheduled transcontinental train past Port Moody, following the new track extension all the way to Vancouver. “Ocean to ocean,” at last.

The rest of the year, CPR Engine 374 sits inside her protective pavilion. But! Once a year! Once a year, on the anniversary of that first arrival, she struts her stuff outdoors.

Oh, she gleams.

All black and white and powerful moving parts…

and shining brass and dates and tiny details…

and lots and lots and lots of live steam.

Monday, Waterfront Esplanade, New Westminster

A wonderful long walk along this stretch of the Fraser River, at very low tide.

The intricate world of mud flats, plus the occasional tree trunk…

and old pier stumps and scavenging crows…

and… and…

a reminder that trains are still part of this country’s lifeblood.

Leaving the Esplanade for downtown New West takes only a moment — only the moment needed to cross one street. But that moment becomes many, many moments when we all have to wait while a thumping great tri-continental freight train (from Mexico on up) claims its right of way.

Fortunately, there is artwork, to pass the time.

  • WALKING… & SEEING

    "Traveller, there is no path. Paths are made by walking" -- Antonio Machado (1875-1939)

    "The voyage of discovery is not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes" -- Marcel Proust (1871-1922)

    "A city is a language, a repository of possibilities, and walking is the act of speaking that language, of selecting from those possibilities" -- Rebecca Solnit, "Wanderlust: A History of Walking"

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