Davie, W to E

6 May 2024 – I’m as far W on Davie Street as you can be, sharing a joke with the A-Maze-ing Laughter sculptures in Morton Park. English Bay can be glimpsed between the statues, and the glory of Stanley Park lies beyond.

I turn my back on all that.

I am heading E, not farther W — east the full length of Davie Street, right from “You are here” in this handy signpost map…

to False Creek, where the street is once again stopped by water.

Just as those waters transform as they go — from the breadth of Strait of Georgia, into English Bay and then into False Creek — so too does Davie Street reflect city transformations.

This 4-km-or-so route is a crosstown slice of Vancouver’s past & evolving future. It leads us from still-vintage West End, through Davie Village (once simply “Gay” & now a more complex family of inclusions), into Downtown with its Entertainment District, and on to Yaletown, western terminus of the railway and the repurposed former hub of railway equipment construction and repair.

Barely underway, I detour onto Bidwell long enough to admire the volunteer garden at the corner of Pantages Lane, with a vintage building opposite.

Well…

I later learn that the vintage building is just a vintage façade. It is, a realtor’s website informs me, “a beautifully restored heritage entrance” to a spiffy new residential tower, “that returns the street frontage to its original character.”

Back out to Davie, where I head eastward on up the street. I do mean “up” — both climbing away from the English Bay basin, and also tilting my head at the towers that increasingly line the street.

A past-&-future moment, here at Davie & Cardero: the district’s future already visible there on the left, and a big blue “rezoning application” notice on the fence of the modest old apartment building on the right.

I see a lot more of these notices as I go, including ones on an apartment building also marked with a “sale by court order” sign.

But there is still lots to enjoy, lots of human activity and human-scale engagement.

Also canine.

He has appropriated this bench outside a barber shop / tattoo parlour, and his confidence is likely well-placed. A bearded man has just walked through that still-open door, his leashed French bulldog by his side. Inside, they are greeted by the statue of a bulldog.

At Broughton, a wonderfully ornate vintage apartment building, its paintwork perhaps a bit scruffy but no sign of any redevelopment activity.

The shops & services around here are not glossy and latest-thing. I like them very much.

Just before Bute, I see this slivered opening between buildings, complete with mural…

and I follow it to the laneway beyond.

Where I turn left, and then left again back to Davie Street, through the Event Zone of Jim Deva Plaza.

The plaza honours the man’s lifelong courage and advocacy. Deva, one of the co-founders of Little Sisters Book and Art Emporium, challenged Canada’s censorship laws in the Supreme Court, and also — with greater success — worked with Civic authorities to promote safety and quality in Vancouver’s parks and public spaces.

I don’t know all this about him at the time. While in the plaza itself, I notice more trivial things. Such as…

Corner of Davie & Bute, and we’re well into Davie Village by now. Here, for example, with a mural tribute to jazz greats behind the intersection rainbows.

I cross, check the mural, and decide I’m personally more taken with the four-legged acrobat and the skate-boarding raccoons on the utility box.

But to each their own!

I pass a nude unimpressed by Happy Hour offerings…

and a greengrocer laying out yet more spring plants on his sidewalk shelving…

and then stop at the hot-pink bus shelter at Davie & Burrard.

The colour echoes the Village, as does the long-established Davie Village Community Garden visible through the mesh.

By now I’m used to rezoning/redevelopment notices, but I am sad to see them posted on this mesh fence as well. I’d love this Garden to continue, but…

what I see right across the street may be its future as well.

At Granville Street, I’m into the city’s Entertainment District (per its tourism maps), where I once again nod happy recognition at the neon signage for Two Parrots Bar & Grill.

Scotiabank Dance Centre is a restoration/new-build complex on the far corner, and other towers abound. So far, the Two Parrots still perch on their accustomed corner, no redevelopment notice anywhere in sight.

The lane immediately behind the building pays tribute to their longevity.

Well, sort of! (Upper left.)

More visual tribute at Seymour Street, where Jill Anholt’s 2005 sculpture, Moving Pictures, honours Vancity Theatre (home of VIFF), which stretches on down the block.

Downhill toward False Creek.

I cross Seymour, pause to again enjoy the long slice of water tumbling through Emery Barnes Park…

and here I am at Hamilton Street, in Yaletown. Once home to railway equipment construction and repair workshops, the district is now repurposed into food, drink, entertainment, & residential delights.

I sidetrack myself along Hamilton for a bit, enjoy reminders of a mid-pandemic “I ❤️ Yaletown” mural festival…

then return to Davie and cross Pacific Blvd.

Roundhouse Community Centre is right here, an architectural link to the past — and nowhere more powerfully than in its CPR Engine 374 Pavilion.

Where, after long service, that steam-era pioneer is on display.

Engine 371 beat her from eastern Canada to Port Moody but, on May 23, 1887, Engine 374 pulled the first transcontinental train into the City of Vancouver. She continued to do just that, until 1945. Restored and gleaming, she now rests and accepts our homage. (Squealing kiddies all around me, especially the ones taking turns in the driver’s seat.) A volunteer urges me to return for the May 19 Anniversary Celebration, when she’ll make her yearly trip outside and be the centre of attention on the Roundhouse Turntable.

Now for the last few steps on Davie, on to the bit of track and sculpture in the traffic circle, with Yaletown Dock to mark water’s edge and my arrival at False Creek

I loop along the waterfront for a bit, then turn left into and through Steamboat Mews…

back to Pacific Blvd., where I hop a bus for home.

Protection

1 May 2024 – You can protect your yard in a variety of ways.

Build a high fence, for example…

post security cameras…

keep a guard dog…

or, instead…

plant yourself a dragon.

(With impressed & amused thanks to He-Knows-Who-He-Is.)

Angles

27 April 2024 – Angles. Slices of angularity as you walk down the street.

Sometimes battered…

and sometimes…

still under construction.

Oz (2024) to Ossington (2014)

25 April 2024 – I asked, and someone very dear to me answered. All the way from Oz (aka Australia).

My previous post ended with this 2013 Toronto mural detail…

plus my request for help in identifying the artist, after all this time.

I assumed any answer would come from a Torontonian, but how silly of me! In this digital age, help is not geography-based. You just give that nice Mr. Google a descriptive phrase, and — hey presto — you are on-site with award-winning contemporary artist EGRart.

The link, as sent to me and here repeated for you, is for her Murals page.

Scroll down, scroll down, and there it is …

a larger view of the dandelion mural (including the male head done by collaborator Elicser).

The photo pitches me back a decade-plus in time. I am again walking west on that street, pausing at that alley, enjoying that mural and all its elements.

And then, back here in 2024 Vancouver, I continue to scroll the Murals page. Down-down-down.

Suddenly… whump! I see this.

Oh, I do remember that garage door. Except when I saw and photographed it, it looked like this:

EGR has transported me back to the laneway behind Ossington Ave., just north of Queen St., on a very snowy day in 2014. Urban myth had it — perhaps correctly — local residents decided that, since their laneway garages were going to be graffiti’d anyway, they might as well invite good artists to come in and do it well.

So they did.

And artists like UBER…

and SPUD…

were among those who responded.

The whole laneway became an open-air art gallery.

A very cold art gallery, that particular day, and I soon skedaddled.

Enough 2014!

Here’s a right-now update, thanks to EGR’s News page. This very Saturday, April 27, she will join co-panelists in an Artist Talk at the Centre for Social Innovation on Spadina Ave. Topic: Women in Mural Art – Building Careers.

How pleasing, to dance through time & space and end, not with nostalgia, but with news of forward momentum.

T. officinale (& friends)

22 April 2024 – But before we dive into Latin taxonomy — not that I knew I was headed there, at the time — before all that, a moment at the corner of Scotia St. & East 7th.

Where I am charmed by Buggingham Palace.

The bee’s knees, you might even call it, though the holes in those colourful pillars are meant to accommodate the entire insect.

The volunteer tending this particular Green Streets corner garden has helpfully labelled all her plantings. I not only admire floppy reddish blossoms on a coarse-leaved shrub, for example, I know I’m admiring a Flowering Red Currant.

Then I look at an adjacent lamp standard, and learn even more.

The building on the opposite corner, the one I’ve always thought of as the Candy Factory, started life in 1904 (or thereabouts) as the Brewery Creek Building, one of many brewery operations in the area. It later became Fell’s Candy Factory, then the Purity Dairy, later on a grease works and later still had other grubby-sounding lives until, in 1993…

it was refurbished and converted to these handsome artist live-work spaces.

Pleased with all this new knowledge, I go on my way. “My way” being straight on east to China Creek North Park — no particular objective, just offering myself a not-very-demanding stroll on a very pretty day.

It’s a large, open, multi-purpose park dropped into a bowl — the bowl being what’s left when you drive underground what had been Vancouver’s largest drainage basin, whose creeks all fed into False Creek. (Until you filled in that final bit of False Creek as well.)

There are steep steps down-down-down on my left at the northern edge, but over there to my right, at the south-west corner, there is the start of a lovely ox-bow path …

that winds its friendly, undemanding way from high to low.

I take the path.

Almost at the bottom — down where I can watch young men grunting through crunches on the level grass while toddlers squeal in the playground — I turn and look back uphill. The slope is dotted with solitary bodies, perhaps meditating, more likely texting, but anyway all with knees angled outward to support their admirably straight torsos.

One person is upright, afoot, moving across the terrain. One human, but six legs.

Human plus fluffy white cat on a leash. See the cat?

Now please stop looking at the cat and notice all that yellow.

Lots and lots of yellow. All over the place.

Taraxacum officinale!

The dandelion.

I have to look up the Latin later on. Standing there, I’m sufficiently occupied just thinking about the word “dandelion.” I know it’s from the French “dent-de-lion,” for the serrated lion’s-tooth edge to the leaf. I also know that the word may be French, but it’s not the word the French themselves use, when they’re getting all familiar with T. officinale. They call it “pissenlit.”

Piss-in-the-bed. Apparently — and this I also have to look up later on — because of the diuretic properties of the plant.

(A sidebar on the delights of common names for plants, in different languages. I know Chlorophytum comosum as Spider Plant. I thought this the perfect evocation of its multitude of leggy offshoots, until a Cuban friend told me its nickname in Spanish. “Mala madre,” she said. Well, of course! The plant must be a bad mother — look at all those babies, running away from home.)

Back to T. officinale. Lawn-proud gardeners hate it, the very word “dandelion” an epithet in their mouths.

Ah, but the word is sweet, in other contexts.

In literature: Ray Bradbury’s 1957 novel, Dandelion Wine.

In wine-making: choose your favourite home-brewer as the example. My uncle put up batches every spring and my aunt heartily approved. I never did ask his secret, so I’ll offer this recipe instead. (No idea how good it is, or isn’t — but who could resist a blog called Practical Self Reliance?)

And, finally, dandelions in the visual arts.

Because, whether in flower or gone to seed, they are beautiful.

This 2013 Toronto street artist caught that beauty, the beauty of the plant itself and its ephemerality.

Like that dandelion head, this alley mural will surely be long gone by now. Unfortunately, I can’t tell you the artist’s name. When I took this picture — for my very first Blurb book! — I didn’t bother with attribution. Drat.

Maybe someone among you can right this old wrong? The style is distinctive, and the artist’s work was often seen in Toronto at the time. (Mary C, author of the splendid As I Walk Toronto blog, I’m thinking especially of you! You know the city’s streets, and street art, so well.)

On the Bounce

18 April 2024 – A bright, gusty day and, I swear, you can practically see the sun’s rays bounce around in the breeze.

So I play that game, as I walk my Cambie Loop around the east end of False Creek. I watch the bounce of the sun, as it…

  • ripples across this disused West 1st Ave. workshop…
  • triangulates Science World’s geodesic dome…
  • transforms a boring building (L) into a darkly magic reflection (R)…
  • warms the backs of a newbie dragon boat team, intent on their coach’s mid-stream lecture…
  • sparkles a V-trail of diverging wakes, ferry eastbound but another dragon boat now veering west toward Cambie Bridge…
  • rolls across the spring-tidied plots of John McBridge Community Garden, beside the bridge…
  • and shoots silver into the sky from the fingers atop the Neighbourhood Energy Utility, also beside the bridge (where waste heat from sewers is recycled into heat & hot water for local use).

I drop down from the bridge and nod to the Community Garden on my way by. It’s a nod of fellow-feeling: my next stop is a garden centre.

Bubbles

14 April 2024 – The magic of bubbles!

The birthday toddler was entranced..

and the adults — blowing or watching — even more so.

“Eyes On The Street”

9 April 2024 – A post title borrowed from a specific sculpture (you’ll see), but broadly applicable to pretty well everything else (as you’ll also see).

First, and more precisely: Eyes on the chain link. Two days ago I’m looping south-east of home, my attention caught by the bold line of graphics visible through chain link fence on East Broadway near Fraser.

Curiosity pulls me around the corner, into the lane, and onto that big rectangle of gravel. Bright graphics all right, but otherwise? One park bench, one dog bowl, no dogs, and one crow, who promptly flies away. That’s it. Yet a neat sign on the gate has the gall to declare this the Broadway & Fraser Dog Garden.

Please! I curl my lip. Later, online, I visit the Dog Garden website, discover a group called Community Garden Builders “transform vacant properties into temporary dog parks” … and uncurl my lip. I invite you to do the same.

Tail end (!!! unintended pun, but I’m gonna leave it) of that walk, I’m passing the mesh fence that keeps Guelph Park tennis balls inside the City courts, where they belong. A player has just stooped to retrieve one, but that’s not what I notice.

See? Our local yarn bomber has branched out. Not just crochet hearts…

but tassel hearts as well.

And now, my friends, the magic of the Historical Present Tense swoops us past yesterday’s rain into today’s bright sunshine. More streets to be walked. More places for my feet to lead my eyes.

Starting in a near-by alley at East 5th, where a whole passel of City workers are clustered around that venerable H-frame hydro pole.

I am relieved to learn that (A) while it is terminally non-functioning, (B) it will be replaced by another H-frame, not by some sleek 21st-c. interloper.

I’m still gleeful with that bit of news as I turn down another alley en route False Creek, and try for a more interesting way to look at Alex Stewart’s 2023 VMF mural, Vibrance Overgrown.

It dominates the alley side of a snazzy new eco-conscious build on East 4th and, viewed straight on… ummm…. I find it boring. Well-executed and bright, but no better than decorative.

Then I stop being cranky, lean into the wall, and look straight up.

Well, that’s more fun, and I resolve to spend more time looking for odd angles.

Next opportunity arises quickly in yet another alley — more properly, in the developer-groomed pathway between condo complexes close to the south-east end of False Creek. We’re in the area’s old industrial/railway footprint, so visual/verbal references abound. For example, in the street name just before me: Pullman Porter Street.

Right here, next to the water feature signposted as private property, I once again enjoy Eyes on the Street. The plaque tells me that the two forms in this 2018 installation by Marie Khouri & Charlotte Wall “mirror themselves & their surroundings,” and inspire us to think of our neighbours, ourselves and our surroundings, and to “consider the beauty of their interconnectedness.”

I go close. The form before me does mirror its surroundings…

and I find that I do then spend a moment considering the interconnectedness of all things.

False Creek at last, where I hook around to the north side, and head west. On past my usual turning point at the Cambie Bridge. Water on my left and, up above me along Marinaside Crescent to my right, one of the three shelter + chairs installations that comprise Lookout.

Created by Christos Dikeakos & Noel Best in 1999, the works feature carved & frosted words to remind us of the Creek’s heritage. I’m not often here, but when I am, I always pause long enough to read some of the words.

Yet farther west, foot of Davie Street, with boats anchored in Quayside Marina on my left and, at water’s edge, the six bronze I-beams of Street Light, by Alex Tregebov & Noel Best. According to the City’s online public art brochure for Yaletown-False Creek, the perforated panels atop these pillars align historic events with actual dates in fancy visual ways. Alas, I’ve never been here at the right moment to see any of that wizardry.

So instead, and as usual, I simply tilt my head up to enjoy some of the superstructure…

tilt my head down to read a few words on the plinth about False Creek Shacks in 1934, and…

level my head to look out across this bit of False Creek, on this very day in 2024.

Focus your eyes a bit above the railing near the cobblestones, and you’ll spot the Canada Goose enjoying the moment right along with me.

By the time i’m passing David Lam Park, my avian companion is a cormorant, not a goose.

There he is, posing atop Buster Simpson’s 1998 work, Brush With Illumination.

I have a very-much-favourite art installation in this park and — with apologies to Simpson (and the cormorant) — Brush isn’t it.

This is it.

Marking High Tide, like its companion pavillion Waiting for Low Tide, is the 1996 creation of sculptor and retired landscape architect Don Vaughan. The latter work is a contemplative circle of large stones in the Creek bed; this one honours the tides with an overhead 360° tribute of words: “As the moon circles the earth the oceans respond with the rhythm of the tides.”

Finally, I leave the water and take myself up to Pacific Blvd where, all along the block stretching east from Homer Street, my eyes are literally on the street.

Well no, make that: literally on the sidewalk.

Which, in this block, is dotted with Gwen Boyle’s 1994 selection of words to reflect the area’s long history.

Once, just once, she offers more than a word or two.

The exception is a longer excerpt from the poem I first noted in my 28 March post “The Beating Sea.”

“… the manstruck forest ..”

I stand there, stunned by the power of his imagery.

So thank you yet again, Earle Birney. You live with us still, in your words and, through the artists you inspire, on our streets.

The Anatomy of Awesome

4 April 2024 – How delightful, when an abstract noun — flung around so casually as to be meaningless — is given specific physical presence.

“Awesome,” it turns out, inhabits precisely 0.09 Ha of space at East 15th Av & Sophia Street, in Vancouver’s Mount Pleasant neighbourhood.

See? Spelled out on the fence that separates the 20 plots of Tea Swamp Community Garden from Tea Swamp Park itself.

And if you think I’m making up that name… I’m not.

And if you think some of the gardeners made up that name… they didn’t.

It’s official.

It commemorates the Labrador Tea plants that used to thrive in the bogs that once covered this area. It also helps explain buckled road surfaces and wonky house angles that are still a feature of the local urbanscape.

Wonky, and tiny, and pretty basic in amenities, but much-loved.

Winter-battered Buddhist prayer flags adorn the fence…

bright new tassels encircle a tree…

the street-corner arbour hasn’t yet leafed out, but its Little Free Library kiosk is full of books…

and a mum relaxes on a bench while her toddler whoops around the admittedly modest playground.

More community action next to the park, where the traffic circle is being prepped for summer by its volunteer gardener (under the City’s Green Streets Program).

A work in progress, but…

it already has its very own Blue Butterfly.

“The Beating Sea”

28 March 2024 – We do not photograph the Metz & Chew art installation near Coal Harbour that bears this plaque…

and we are here walking along False Creek in March, not November.

Warmth and brightness are therefore both gathering strength, not losing it.

But!

The sliding edge of the beating sea is always with us.

Thank you, Earle Birney.

  • WALKING… & SEEING

    "Traveller, there is no path. Paths are made by walking" -- Antonio Machado (1875-1939)

    "The voyage of discovery is not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes" -- Marcel Proust (1871-1922)

    "A city is a language, a repository of possibilities, and walking is the act of speaking that language, of selecting from those possibilities" -- Rebecca Solnit, "Wanderlust: A History of Walking"

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