18 March 2024 – I’m in Stanley Park, along with half of all Vancouver it seems, ready to enjoy this weekend burst of double-digit sunshine.
More precisely, I’m off the bus, through the underpass, and poised at the south-west curve of Lost Lagoon…
about to walk counter-clockwise and follow the trail east along the lagoon’s north shore.
Everything trembles on the edge of spring, unfurling new growth. Trees overhead, trees weeping downward to the water.
And, down there in the water, in the rich muck of the wetland, most wonderfully of all…
the fluorescent glow of the Western Skunk Cabbage. My first of the season. Now I know it’s spring!
The eastern variety is a more modest creature, it seems, so I forgive myself for being entirely ignorant of this plant until I moved west and was smacked in the eye by all that gold. (And also educated by You-Know-Who-You-Are.) Now I look for it each year, and give a little wriggle of joy at the first sighting.
On across Lost Lagoon, and on and on and then, though still in Stanley Park, I’m in entirely another world. I’m in all the noisy facilities-rich hoop-la of Second Beach.
Right where this red button says I am:
I turn right, head up the Seawall toward Third Beach. (Thank you, I murmur to the universe. I am so lucky, to be right here, right now, in all this.)
Here we all are, in all this.
Runners…
and cyclists/loungers/kiddies/adults/impromptu tents/storm-thrown stumps on Third Beach…
and rocks and freighters just off Ferguson Point…
and a tree with a heart…
and a patch of Seawall with its very own Cat-Angel…
and — after I’ve walked myself back south out of Stanley Park and into Morton Park — four Vancouver icons. All on view without turning my head.
Background, the renovated Berkeley Tower with its Douglas Coupland mosaics; mid-ground, Yue Minjun’s Ah-Mazeing-Laughter sculpture installation; right mid-ground, a cluster of Windmill Palms; and, tucked in their foreground shadow, some Canada Geese.
The day has me in sensory overload.
Yet, with all that wealth of input, one image keeps coming back to mind.
The north shore wetland of Lost Lagoon, the dabbling duck above the mossy rock on the left, the Skunk Cabbage on the right, and all that tender new greenery shooting up everywhere in-between.
15 March 2024 – It all begins at Kingsway & East Broadway, waiting for the lights to change. I look up.
Guide wires…
glide the # 8 trolley bus around the corner below, and adorn the sky above while they’re at it.
Next day, one neighbourhood to the west, gingerbread…
protects this vintage bay window, and adorns it as well.
Across the street in Major Matthews Park, rampant ferns…
will surely over time help destroy this pergola roof, but meanwhile adorn it very prettily.
Finally, this morning, an intentional rather than accidental green roof — the one atop the Visitor Centre at the VanDusen Botanical Garden. This solar chimney…
serves the planet, adorns the ceiling that it also pierces — and helps illustrate why the Centre won the 2014 World Architecture Most Sustainable Building Award.
14 February 2024 – Two parks, both small, and so very different in the story they each tell.
One, a park I only discovered recently, thanks to falling across the Vancouver Park Guide blog, in which Justin McElroy takes on the task of visiting every park in the city. The other… well, it’s my local, innit? Some people have a pub, I have a local park.
Yours To Enjoy (within limits)
Thanks to McElroy, I’ve headed south on Granville Street into Kerrisdale, to walk through what he (& the City’s own website) calls Shannon Mews Park, but which the signage identifies otherwise.
A modest little name, by definition quickly outdated, but on the edge of a property with considerable architectural and historic significance. To the rear right, the Beaux-Arts mansion commissioned early in the 20th century by B .T. Rogers (founder, British Columbia Sugar); to the rear left, some of the mid-20th century apartments designed by renowned BC architect Arthur Erickson and, in the 21st-century, “revitalized” by the 10-acre site’s subsequent owners, developer Peter Wall and the Wall Financial Corporation.
There is also a street-side map showing “accessible” walking routes, with the usual icon of a figure in a wheelchair. However, thanks to McElroy, I have been warned. Though there is indeed some public space in front of this complex, it offers minimal accessibility to non-residents, whether in a wheelchair or on their own two feet. And, he added darkly (in a post that is now just over a year old), there is some on-going history of attempts to limit the pesky public even more.
I put my pesky-public feet on one of the designated pathways and walk on in.
Even mid-winter, with the Italianate gardens severely shorn, it’s an attractive walk. There is a small children’s playground to the east, and a few benches to the west and north. It’s fine.
But then, boom…
I’m up against it. A locked gate, barring access. Go away, pesky-public-person, says the gate. I try another path, and soon find myself in front of another lockable gate — which, at the moment, is ajar.
I walk on through. i want a closer look at the mansion.
Well, good luck with that.
As long as I keep my pesky-public feet on the path, I am allowed to look across the lawn and the water feature to the mansion beyond. But I am now on PRIVATE PROPERTY, and everywhere I now turn, there is another big red sign to remind me of my interloper status.
So I leave.
Before I do, i squint my eyes at the gargoyle midway on the wall just beyond the water feature. Spread the photo, you can see him as well. He is either grimacing in solidarity with me, or laughing at me. I choose the former interpretation, and go on my way, head held high.
A public park, yes, but cold. It does not welcome us. We are on sufferance.
In contrast to…
The Warmth of the Chill
I am back in my “local,” Guelph Park. Known to us all as Dude Chilling Park, in honour of the Michael Dennis bronze sculpture that is the park’s only claim to aesthetic merit — officially Reclining Figure, but the nickname is the name we use.
It’s a small and simple park, with a few amenities: benches at the periphery, a bit of a playground, two tennis courts. But this park is ferociously loved and much used. And also much-adorned, by all the people who think of it as their own.
Our area Yarn Bomber, for example, has hung her work on the mesh fence and wrapped each of the poles that dot the park.
Beyond this pole, you see people gathered around one of the benches. The park has its regular visitors, each group with its regular bench or set of chairs — just like any local pub.
A tree near the south end of the park is typically covered in changing ornaments, each one a testimonial to someone, to something. (One day a young man detached himself from his cluster of friends to tell me about one of the people he associates with that tree, and the memories it sparks for him.)
Today, the tree base is freshly circled with these bright hearts and flowers, and a new selection of stones. That grey stone reads: “But until then, I’ll see you in my dreams”
For the first time, I notice the plaque on one of the benches along the western edge of the park.
This is a park that, despite the chill in its nickname, is very warm indeed. It welcomes us all — and it even gives us a role model. Who would not want to be known as a “Chill dude with the best laugh”?
2 February 2024 – The predicted torrents of rain didn’t take place, but it has been very drizzly. And very, very grey. Not the luminous grey that I so often celebrate, but a flat-matte grey that sucks contrast and depth from the scene.
Since it is double-digit mild as well as merely-moist-not-wet, I opt for a walk all along the Seawall from Devonian Harbour Park, at the edge of Stanley Park, to Canada Place downtown.
I am indeed “here,” right where it says I am, there at the lower left, and I set off.
But… how shall I put this… it is not very uplifting. Just a whole world of flat grey, merge-purging itself in blurry confusion out to the horizon. Our grand panoramic views are not at all grand, at the moment.
Well, sod the panoramic views. I shall instead look for details. Small, very bright details. In the red family, by preference.
And so I notice a bright orange bumper ring tucked around this boat in Bayshore West Marina…
a pair of red & mustard houseboats, punching through the polite blue & white of the Coal Harbour Marina…
a brazen life ring, admiring itself in the waters off Coal Harbour Quay…
a red & white seaplane, growling itself to life for its next run from the Vancouver Harbour Flight Centre out to the Gulf Islands…
a long view from the Convention Centre, on east past Canada Place to orange cranes in the Port beyond, poised over a cargo freighter…
and Douglas Coupland’s Digital Orca, right here at the edge of Jack Poole Plaza, dancing the pixillated dance that has been its signature since 2009.
29 January 2024 – 7:35:15 a.m.; right here at 49.2827° N 123.1207° W; this very morning.
The calm before the anticipated next series of storms: “Heavy rain will persist into the first half of the week as a stubborn atmospheric river lingers over British Columbia.”
12 January 2024 – But first, an acknowledgment. It is merely -11C as I write this, not (for e.g.) the -33C of Calgary nor the NWT temps that Lynette is recalling in her Baby It’s Cold post.
But still, for Vancouver, -11C is nippy. Yesterday, as Polar Vortex warnings hit our media and temperatures dropped to -3 or so, I decided I had to prove to myself that six years of Vancouver life had not rendered me incapable of going for a sub-zero walk.
Down to False Creek.
Snow-promising skies beginning to build, up there behind the World of Science dome…
and, by mid-afternoon, snow clouds massed even more dramatically all along the Coast Range Mountains.
It did snow.
Just a skiffle, nothing deep, but — given the temperatures — it has stayed on the ground.
Today, over those same Coast Range Mountains, the sunshine that comes with greater cold.
I bundle up once again. I am still not a wimp!
I decide I don’t need to go far: I can satisfy honour with a quick loop around Dude Chilling Park, and a respectful salute to The Dude himself en passant.
Other bundled-up people along the way (and some bundled-up dogs).
I reach the park. There’s The Dude.
With … what… something white… in the crook of his shoulder. Please don’t let it be litter, I murmur to myself. I’ve enjoyed, taken confidence from, the respect people show The Dude. Please let that continue.
Well of course it’s not litter.
It is the world’s smallest snowman, lovingly shaped and lovingly placed, cuddled up with The Dude.
Behind my face-scarf, I am all scrunched up with delight.
And then I take my tingling fingers back home, and wrap them around some hot chocolate.
2 January 2024 – The challenge is: how many icons can I jam into my first post of the new year? Icons that say, “Vancouver in winter,” but also speak to my own obsessions.
Off I go.
Start with: alley + street art + H-frame hydro poles + distant mountains fading into the misty drizzle.
Add: False Creek + Science World dome + Aquabus ferry + orange Port of Vancouver “giraffes” + (audio only, take my word for it) the 12-noon Gastown Steam Clock rendition of O Canada.
Add: a dance of lines & spaces.
Add: a surprise. If your eyes are open, there is always a surprise. (Though not always as dramatic, or unfortunate, as this one east of the Cambie bridge.)
Add: the gleam of rust in the rain. (Here, the sewer-pipe “train engine” over a Hinge Park creek.)
Add: winter tree trunk moss, garnished with fernlets.
As I walk back south on Ontario Street, I think: It lacks only a crow.
And then, just north of East 5th, there he is!
Yes, yes, I know. He is white, and painted, and riding a skateboard. But I say he is a crow, and it’s my blog.
"Traveller, there is no path. Paths are made by walking" -- Antonio Machado (1875-1939)
"The voyage of discovery is not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes" -- Marcel Proust (1871-1922)
"A city is a language, a repository of possibilities, and walking is the act of speaking that language, of selecting from those possibilities" -- Rebecca Solnit, "Wanderlust: A History of Walking"