4 April 2024 – How delightful, when an abstract noun — flung around so casually as to be meaningless — is given specific physical presence.
“Awesome,” it turns out, inhabits precisely 0.09 Ha of space at East 15th Av & Sophia Street, in Vancouver’s Mount Pleasant neighbourhood.
See? Spelled out on the fence that separates the 20 plots of Tea Swamp Community Garden from Tea Swamp Park itself.
And if you think I’m making up that name… I’m not.
And if you think some of the gardeners made up that name… they didn’t.
It’s official.
It commemorates the Labrador Tea plants that used to thrive in the bogs that once covered this area. It also helps explain buckled road surfaces and wonky house angles that are still a feature of the local urbanscape.
Wonky, and tiny, and pretty basic in amenities, but much-loved.
Winter-battered Buddhist prayer flags adorn the fence…
bright new tassels encircle a tree…
the street-corner arbour hasn’t yet leafed out, but its Little Free Library kiosk is full of books…
and a mum relaxes on a bench while her toddler whoops around the admittedly modest playground.
More community action next to the park, where the traffic circle is being prepped for summer by its volunteer gardener (under the City’s Green Streets Program).
18 March 2024 – I’m in Stanley Park, along with half of all Vancouver it seems, ready to enjoy this weekend burst of double-digit sunshine.
More precisely, I’m off the bus, through the underpass, and poised at the south-west curve of Lost Lagoon…
about to walk counter-clockwise and follow the trail east along the lagoon’s north shore.
Everything trembles on the edge of spring, unfurling new growth. Trees overhead, trees weeping downward to the water.
And, down there in the water, in the rich muck of the wetland, most wonderfully of all…
the fluorescent glow of the Western Skunk Cabbage. My first of the season. Now I know it’s spring!
The eastern variety is a more modest creature, it seems, so I forgive myself for being entirely ignorant of this plant until I moved west and was smacked in the eye by all that gold. (And also educated by You-Know-Who-You-Are.) Now I look for it each year, and give a little wriggle of joy at the first sighting.
On across Lost Lagoon, and on and on and then, though still in Stanley Park, I’m in entirely another world. I’m in all the noisy facilities-rich hoop-la of Second Beach.
Right where this red button says I am:
I turn right, head up the Seawall toward Third Beach. (Thank you, I murmur to the universe. I am so lucky, to be right here, right now, in all this.)
Here we all are, in all this.
Runners…
and cyclists/loungers/kiddies/adults/impromptu tents/storm-thrown stumps on Third Beach…
and rocks and freighters just off Ferguson Point…
and a tree with a heart…
and a patch of Seawall with its very own Cat-Angel…
and — after I’ve walked myself back south out of Stanley Park and into Morton Park — four Vancouver icons. All on view without turning my head.
Background, the renovated Berkeley Tower with its Douglas Coupland mosaics; mid-ground, Yue Minjun’s Ah-Mazeing-Laughter sculpture installation; right mid-ground, a cluster of Windmill Palms; and, tucked in their foreground shadow, some Canada Geese.
The day has me in sensory overload.
Yet, with all that wealth of input, one image keeps coming back to mind.
The north shore wetland of Lost Lagoon, the dabbling duck above the mossy rock on the left, the Skunk Cabbage on the right, and all that tender new greenery shooting up everywhere in-between.
15 March 2024 – It all begins at Kingsway & East Broadway, waiting for the lights to change. I look up.
Guide wires…
glide the # 8 trolley bus around the corner below, and adorn the sky above while they’re at it.
Next day, one neighbourhood to the west, gingerbread…
protects this vintage bay window, and adorns it as well.
Across the street in Major Matthews Park, rampant ferns…
will surely over time help destroy this pergola roof, but meanwhile adorn it very prettily.
Finally, this morning, an intentional rather than accidental green roof — the one atop the Visitor Centre at the VanDusen Botanical Garden. This solar chimney…
serves the planet, adorns the ceiling that it also pierces — and helps illustrate why the Centre won the 2014 World Architecture Most Sustainable Building Award.
8 March 2024 – As I walk back east along False Creek, I do not have a single Life Philosophy thought in my mind. Not a single abstract noun. I am just picking my feet up and putting them down again, enjoying the sunshine.
Then I see this neon glow in the water, just off a curve of seawall between Stamp’s Landing Dock and Spyglass Place Dock farther east.
Still no Important Thoughts in mind, just curiosity.
It’s not until I’m up close, and can identify the shape as a boat, that I think about vulnerability. There that little boat used to be, afloat and riding the currents — and there it now is, submerged and inert.
Vulnerability, consequences, responses. The dynamic is now lodged in my mind, and I see it all over the place as I walk on home.
In environmental and political vulnerabilities, for example, here at Spyglass Place Dock, where blue bands circle Cambie Bridge pilings and a quiet black tribute pillar stands at water’s edge.
The top blue tier in this 2012 art installation, A False Creek, is 5 metres above current sea levels — which is mid-way between the 4 to 6 metre rise that, it is predicted, could be triggered by climate change. The pillar honours Husain Rahim (1865-1937). He was an activist at the time of the 1914 SS Komagata Maru incident that barred a boatload of South Asian passengers from disembarking, and one of the first South Asians to challenge the disenfranchisement then taking place. While the ferry dock is still Spyglass Place, I learn that this space is now called Husain Rahim Plaza.
I’m about to walk on — and discover that I can’t.
Due to “the deteriorating condition of the structure supporting the seawall,” the path has been closed between the Cambie Bridge, right here, and Hinge Park to the east. Detour along West 1st, we are told, while authorities address this weakness.
Heading for 1st Avenue, I walk under the bridge, where I stop long enough to read this extraordinary beer-themed love letter chalked onto one of the pillars.
The message is fresh and wonderful, but street art by definition is ephemeral. Vulnerable. Just look above the top line for proof — the “Simply Jay” message has been effaced.
Eastward on West 1st Avenue now, and more vulnerability call-and-response.
The building in the foreground is one of the City’s Temporary Modular Housing facilities, created in response to what the City itself calls a crisis situation: “over 2,000 people are experiencing homelessness.” The rusty building farther along is an old, disused workshop from the area’s industrial past. It will surely fall down, or be knocked down, sometime soon.
Lying between those two buildings, and in behind the housing as well: an urban farm.
Sole Food Street Farms, founded in 2009, is now one of North America’s largest urban farms. This location trains & employs people from the Vancouver Downtown East Side, who grow the produce that is then sold & given away.
At Hinge Park, I can drop back to the waterfront. The railway tracks and buffers here at the south edge honour the past; the park itself is part of the pre-2010 Winter Olympics response to what had become a derelict and polluted wasteland.
Even my classy latte in an Olympic Village Square café reminds me of vulnerability! I have left it to sit just a little too long, and, look, the frothy design is beginning to deflate. (The taste, I promise you, is unaffected.)
Back outside, I admire TheBirds (Myfanwy MacLeod, 2010), gleaming in the sunshine.
The gleam is thanks to their fairly recent repatination; the repatination was the response to the vulnerability of their surface to all those climbing feet. Signage now politely reminds people that these sculptures are art, not a climbing wall, and asks us to keep our feet on the ground.
Heading south on Ontario Street, I detour half a block west into an alley, for a closer look at a face.
This face.
L’il Top is the signature, and if this bit of street art is vulnerable to time and the elements, so are those H-frame hydro poles. I, and countless Vancouver artists, love the look of them, but they are seriously outmoded, and systematically being replaced.
Back onto Ontario, farther south to West 6th, and my vulnerability theme now presents itself in a real-estate trio. The first thing I notice is that wavy reflection in the windows of the blocky new-build on the corner.
Then I play with the story, the trio of stories, the development dynamic of this bit of Mount Pleasant neighbourhood. Behind the new-build, a century-plus brick veteran, its status secure; in these windows, the reflection of the scruffy building across the street, wrapped in chain-link fencing, its status unclear.
Once the Teachers Centre for the Vancouver School Board (1972-1990s), it sits within the footprint of the T3 Mount Pleasant site now under construction — “T3” as in timber/transit/technology, with a planned 190,000 square feet of mass timber construction to attract environmentally responsible companies and workers. If the developer’s web page is any guide, at least part of this old building will be restored and repurposed as a heritage element in the mix.
Response to environmental threat is the theme of this part of Mount Pleasant. Along with the T3 building, it is also home to the emerging Main Alley Campus, which promises to provide “Canada’s first completely net-zero work environment for the creative economy.”
These two projects won’t save the planet, but it is heartening to see major development corporations put their weight behind new, more environmentally responsible, approaches.
I swing onto East 7th, and salute a building that has long known how to respond to changing threats — and here it still is, 112 years later.
Behold Quebec Manor, in all its diamond-patterned, bi-coloured brick glory. (Complete with metal balconies and nude maidens to welcome you home…) Built in 1912 as a luxury apartment hotel, probably for train passengers at the near-by terminals, it became rental units in the 1920s, and in the 1980s achieved new, secure status when its tenants bought the building and turned it into a housing co-op.
So that’s my walk, and how discouraging it could have been, with such a theme. But it wasn’t. So many vulnerabilities, yes — and so many responses, as well.
21 February 2024 – Move over, Pussy-Cat. The owl has a new companion.
I’m at the corner of West 10th & Columbia, heading east, and I am stopped in my tracks by an owl.
A real owl would seriously stop me in my tracks; this one is not real, but still unexpected and worth some attention. He is dangling from a traffic sign that promises you death & dismemberment if you even think about parking here.
It’s only after I move closer to contemplate the macramé shades-of-the-70s owl, that I really take in the heritage house in the background.
Which certainly deserves my attention.
The Owl and the Painted Lady! I murmur to myself.
And, with that, I forget Edward Lear and think about Painted Ladies. Painted Ladies in heritage neighbourhoods.
The best-known reference, especially outside Canada, would be to San Francisco and its line of brightly painted Victorian homes along the eastern side of Alamo Square Park. Former Torontonian that I am, I think instead of the Painted Ladies of Cabbagetown.
Of one in particular. Rather, the story of one in particular, told to me by the friend who lived next door and whose teenage daughter played (literally) a starring role. Picture the scene. We are in a Victorian home, among others of that vintage, on this street, in this comfortable neighbourhood.
The daughter is practising Bach on the piano in the bay window alcove, with the windows wide open in the summer heat. Next door, a painter is climbing up and down the ladder as he works on that home’s wooden fish-scale façade. The girl pays him no mind, not until she looks up to find him standing right outside her window. She is surprised at the sight; even more surprised when he — politely but firmly — describes very specific ways for her to improve her technique. Who the hell does he think he is? is her first sulky teenage thought. She stifles it. Because, damn it, he does sound like he knows a lot about music.
Turns out, he does. The woman next door tells her mum that the painter, in his previous career, had been a member of the original Orford String Quartet (1965-1991, reborn in 2009 as the New Orford String Quartet with different members). In his new career, he is now creating visual rather than aural music, shimmering cascades of colour rather than sound.
I sink into this memory for a bit, think about my friend’s home, and my admiration for the eventual beauty of that house next door. Then I snap myself back to the here-and-now. I am about to walk on, when I notice a sign on the street-corner lamp post. Always a sucker for signage, I trot across the street to read it.
The Vancouver Park Board seems only to have run the contest those two years — main criterion “community spirit… as demonstrated through block beautification” — and this block of West 10th won both times.
I’m afraid I short-change you for the rest of the block; I take no more photos. But back in 2009, somebody walked the block with delight, and posted the results to his public Flickr stream.
So enjoy the photos, chase up some Orford (original and New) performances online, and then rejoice in all the ways we humans can create beauty.
14 February 2024 – Two parks, both small, and so very different in the story they each tell.
One, a park I only discovered recently, thanks to falling across the Vancouver Park Guide blog, in which Justin McElroy takes on the task of visiting every park in the city. The other… well, it’s my local, innit? Some people have a pub, I have a local park.
Yours To Enjoy (within limits)
Thanks to McElroy, I’ve headed south on Granville Street into Kerrisdale, to walk through what he (& the City’s own website) calls Shannon Mews Park, but which the signage identifies otherwise.
A modest little name, by definition quickly outdated, but on the edge of a property with considerable architectural and historic significance. To the rear right, the Beaux-Arts mansion commissioned early in the 20th century by B .T. Rogers (founder, British Columbia Sugar); to the rear left, some of the mid-20th century apartments designed by renowned BC architect Arthur Erickson and, in the 21st-century, “revitalized” by the 10-acre site’s subsequent owners, developer Peter Wall and the Wall Financial Corporation.
There is also a street-side map showing “accessible” walking routes, with the usual icon of a figure in a wheelchair. However, thanks to McElroy, I have been warned. Though there is indeed some public space in front of this complex, it offers minimal accessibility to non-residents, whether in a wheelchair or on their own two feet. And, he added darkly (in a post that is now just over a year old), there is some on-going history of attempts to limit the pesky public even more.
I put my pesky-public feet on one of the designated pathways and walk on in.
Even mid-winter, with the Italianate gardens severely shorn, it’s an attractive walk. There is a small children’s playground to the east, and a few benches to the west and north. It’s fine.
But then, boom…
I’m up against it. A locked gate, barring access. Go away, pesky-public-person, says the gate. I try another path, and soon find myself in front of another lockable gate — which, at the moment, is ajar.
I walk on through. i want a closer look at the mansion.
Well, good luck with that.
As long as I keep my pesky-public feet on the path, I am allowed to look across the lawn and the water feature to the mansion beyond. But I am now on PRIVATE PROPERTY, and everywhere I now turn, there is another big red sign to remind me of my interloper status.
So I leave.
Before I do, i squint my eyes at the gargoyle midway on the wall just beyond the water feature. Spread the photo, you can see him as well. He is either grimacing in solidarity with me, or laughing at me. I choose the former interpretation, and go on my way, head held high.
A public park, yes, but cold. It does not welcome us. We are on sufferance.
In contrast to…
The Warmth of the Chill
I am back in my “local,” Guelph Park. Known to us all as Dude Chilling Park, in honour of the Michael Dennis bronze sculpture that is the park’s only claim to aesthetic merit — officially Reclining Figure, but the nickname is the name we use.
It’s a small and simple park, with a few amenities: benches at the periphery, a bit of a playground, two tennis courts. But this park is ferociously loved and much used. And also much-adorned, by all the people who think of it as their own.
Our area Yarn Bomber, for example, has hung her work on the mesh fence and wrapped each of the poles that dot the park.
Beyond this pole, you see people gathered around one of the benches. The park has its regular visitors, each group with its regular bench or set of chairs — just like any local pub.
A tree near the south end of the park is typically covered in changing ornaments, each one a testimonial to someone, to something. (One day a young man detached himself from his cluster of friends to tell me about one of the people he associates with that tree, and the memories it sparks for him.)
Today, the tree base is freshly circled with these bright hearts and flowers, and a new selection of stones. That grey stone reads: “But until then, I’ll see you in my dreams”
For the first time, I notice the plaque on one of the benches along the western edge of the park.
This is a park that, despite the chill in its nickname, is very warm indeed. It welcomes us all — and it even gives us a role model. Who would not want to be known as a “Chill dude with the best laugh”?
6 February 2024 – Having puttered my way along Commercial Drive, I am now zigzagging my way north-west through various neighbourhoods, making my way to Main Street and a bus on home.
No particular plan, so it’s sheer serendipity and pleasure to find myself on Charles Street looking north along McLean — the site of Mosaic Creek Park.
Hundreds of mosaic tiles form the “creek” running through this tiny park. It is the late-90s creation of a determined local coalition, the Britannia Neighbours Community Group, with the help of mosaic artists Glen Anderson and Marina Szijarto, who ran workshops and facilitated tile-making by any community member who wanted to take part.
The Park Board insisted the tiles be frost-proof, but set no artistic criteria. People were free to create whatever they wanted to create.
Agile fish, for example…
or a sleepy cat…
or wind-blown leaves…
or (why not) a dancing, prancing human being.
The two people on that corner bench, though relaxed and companionable, are not dancing. In raspy voices, they discuss strategies for getting your s**t together in rehab.
Farther down McLean, two dapper young businessmen stand side by side, eyeing a corner lot. In quick, clipped voices, they discuss marketing strategies for new builds.
"Traveller, there is no path. Paths are made by walking" -- Antonio Machado (1875-1939)
"The voyage of discovery is not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes" -- Marcel Proust (1871-1922)
"A city is a language, a repository of possibilities, and walking is the act of speaking that language, of selecting from those possibilities" -- Rebecca Solnit, "Wanderlust: A History of Walking"