On The Way to Art

16 November 2026 – I have a plan. Take the #19 bus; get off at Granville; walk south a few blocks; visit two art galleries.

But then I get on the wrong bus, and things do not go according to plan.

Two different bus routes come ’round the corner, you see, and I don’t bother reading the signage before I jump aboard. I settle back, ready to indulge in city-watching until we reach the #19’s Granville stop. Except… we don’t. The bus turns north well before Granville and ends its run at Waterfront Station.

Which is exactly what the #8 is supposed to do.

More than a little sheepish, I step down and rethink my route. I’m still within easy reach of my first target, the VAG (Vancouver Art Gallery); I’m just approaching it from a different angle — an angle that, with a couple of zig-zags, finds me heading south on Howe Street, between West Pender and Dunsmuir.

Where — eyes right — I see this alley, bouncing its colours in every direction.

Look at all those rectangles! And the polka-dots! (Which splash their reflections all over the adjacent white van.)

The alley pulls me in, how could it not? Happy rectangles to the south; happy circles to the north…

forming still-life tableaux with delivery trucks and doorway tubing.

Splatters on the pavement. Yellow…

and red…

and, here at the Hornby end of the block, bright blue. Further adorned with russet leaves.

I’m well-pleased with my wrong-bus start to the day. It fed me into this alley, handed me all this unexpected art while on my way to expected art.

There’s one more hit of the unexpected yet to come. I find it in the plaza just east of the VAG.

Lanterns.

All the forms in these lanterns, says the signage for Lux Memoriae (Tidal Reflections) by Ari Lazer, come from the tidal contours of the Fraser River.

This theme ties perfectly, and I am sure deliberately, with the VAG exhibition I have come to see: We who have known tides . Drawn from the VAG’s permanent collection of art by indigenous artists, all of the works in some way reference life interwoven with ocean and tide.

A spill of abalone shells (I am turning towards tides, winds, clouds, rainfall, by Tanya Lukin Linklater), for example, burnished and positioned on a tarp…

and, on the far wall, four pieces of found cedar (Longing, by Sonny Assu)…

all end cuts, and each selected for its resemblance to a mask.

I do not visit other floors, other exhibitions. I take myself a little farther south on Howe, for the Our French Connection show at Outsiders and Others.

This is a different art world entirely, in a gallery focused on contemporary work by self-taught and non-traditional artists. There is great diversity of styles, materials and objects — but every piece pulses with the outsider energy of the person who created it. I’m always engaged, when I visit this gallery, a-buzz with what surrounds me.

And, almost always, before I get to the art I have a bit of a chin-wag with Yuri Arajs, the gallery’s Artistic Director and Curator. Today I pull out my phone, show him the alley I discovered en route.

He plucks the phone from my hand, walks over to the wall, and holds this image I took of the alley in Vancouver…

next to this pen-on-paper Star Car, drawn by Dominique Lemoine in France.

We shake heads at each other and laugh. Art is all over the place! Inside, outside, in galleries, in alleys, bursting 360° through human demographics & world geography, discovered by intention or just by climbing on the wrong bus.

Pleased with that thought, I reclaim my phone and turn my attention to the show.

(Which I urge you to do as well, should you be in Vancouver this month.)

So T.O.

14 September – And then, from morning to afternoon, I leave Toronto and land in Vancouver. Here I am, looking through slight drizzle to the mountains, with one last love-letter I want to offer “T.O.” (Tee-Oh, Toronto.)

My T.O., that is, nobody else’s — my own mix of memory and re-discovery, blind to what others would notice, alert to all my own triggers.

Glimpses from streetcars, for example.

A rampart mural by Shalak Attack, which I remember watching her paint, many years ago…

the distinctive two-tone brick and architecture I associate with my own decades in the Cabbagetown neighbourhood, but common to the city in that era…

and Streetcar Dog. Not unique to Toronto, but part of my own memory bank of riding the TTC.

Then there are my re-discoveries on foot, all around the Grange neighbourhood and the Art Gallery of Ontario, where I was for years a volunteer and therefore an area where I came and went, a very great deal.

Bronze turtle watching martial-arts in Butterfield Park, the new-since-my-time refurbishment of the land just east of Grange Park and south of OCAD (Ontario College of Art + Design) University…

Henry Moore’s Large Two Forms, looking very at home in its new home in the reinvented Grange Park, with the brilliant blue rear wall and distinctive Frank Gehry staircase as backdrop…

and, once inside, the soaring glulam arches of the AGO’s front-façade Galeria Italia.

Unchanged, these arches. Ditto, the way the Galeria invites you to look out across Dundas Street. Native son Gehry made sure his design honoured and welcomed the neighbourhood of his childhood as its own visual final wall.

I am in the AGO as much to walk old ground as to see current exhibitions, but in the end I do both.

The Joyce Wieland retrospective, Heart On, speaks not only to my memories of her bursting on the scene, but also to how current she now is, once again.

Wieland was a fierce ’60s-70s feminist and, despite (or perhaps because of) long years in New York, a fierce Canadian patriot as well. She often used the soft “feminine” skills of embroidery or quilting to express strong political convictions.

For example, with her 1970 work, I Love Canada – J’aime Canada.

Awwww. (Twist finger in cheek.) So sweet.

Now read the signage.

And read the embroidered fine print.

Wieland’s narrow definition of Canadian identity is now out-dated — but the rest of her analysis is Elbows-Up contemporary.

Some hours later, I leave the building. I still have more circling and prowling to do.

I check out the S/W corner of Dundas West & McCaul. It is also the N/E corner of the AGO footprint and, in my day, was still home to Moore’s Large Two Forms. For the first time, I see what now sits on that corner — Brian Jungen’s commissioned work, Couch Monster. (Read more, here, in a fine post by our WordPress colleague, Canadian Art Junkie.)

I circle the work, and also take in the larger view, including the top of an old mural by veteran Toronto artist Birdo, now obscured by newer construction and backed by even-newer construction.

Finally, and not with terrifically high hopes, I take myself across Dundas West and into the alley between Dundas and Darcy Street to the north. I am eager but also dreading to see what it’s like, these days. My memory is of an alley bursting with street art, full of the “garage-door art” that I associate with my memories of Toronto.

And…

there it still is. On and on, to the west, beyond the frame of this image. Not exactly as it was, of course not, but alive and current and so-very-T.O.

I turn right on a second, N/S, alley, passing delicate tendrils and other art as I go…

and emerge on Darcy Street.

Where I drink in an enclave of old downtown residential architecture, oh look, some still survives…

and then pivot on my heel to look east down the block. Out to McCaul Street.

Still some old brick homes, and still the spire of St. Patrick’s Church (the 5th-oldest Roman Catholic parish in Toronto) as well — plus the immediate examples of all the new towers now exploding skyward.

There it all is.

The whole jarring/exhilarating, cacophonous/euphonious, forever-evolving symphony of the city.

So T.O.

Tributes

5 October 2024 – A theme that has unexpectedly imposed itself, and yes in places it’s a bit of a stretch, but you’ll work with me on this, won’t you?

First up, a photo from a few days ago, taken not with any tribute in mind, but simply as a cityscape moment: the dome of a heritage building against a lowering sky, framed by tram wires and traffic lights.

But I can pull it into the tribute theme. It is a tribute (A) to the Carnegie Foundation capital grants that sparked the creation of public libraries all over the world, including, in 1903, this one at Main & East Hastings in Vancouver; and, (B) to the City of Vancouver that restored and revived the building and reopened it in 1980 as the Carnegie Community Centre, a new name and new breadth of services for the same core purpose — respect, support and more opportunities for people who need them.

Today’s outing had no theme in mind. Well, none beyond visiting two parks on the eastern edge of the city — one for the first time — and then walking residential streets back home.

And if I must, I’ll defend this bucolic shot of Trout Lake in John Hendry Park…

by saying, “Yah, well, it’s my tribute to a weeping willow doing what weeping willows do best, plus look at the fancy trick it plays with its trunk!”

(You are, however, allowed to roll your eyes.)

It’s en route the next park — Clark Park (second-oldest in the city and, official blurbs point out, “the only one that rhymes”) — that, still unbeknownst to me, the tribute theme starts to gain traction.

I’m on East 14th, moving right along because I’m eager to cross Commercial Drive and set foot in the Park-That-Rhymes for the very first time.

And I stop.

This is odd. Where some previous tree trunks have twee little “fairy houses” as adornments, this one has two mugs.

Deliberately there, pushed into place.

I lean in.

I don’t know if this is a tribute from Mike & Ella, or to Mike & Ella, but tribute it surely is. I am ridiculously pleased that, on July 23, 2022, such a good time was had by all.

Next tribute, the other side of the Park-That-Rhymes, and the other side of its other street boundary at that, on East 15th.

It is a tribute to graffiti. By a developer. Really.

Conceptually, I am totally in favour. Aesthetically, I wish the resulting murals were more interesting.

And then I run into busy Knight St., and it’s horrible and crowded and there’s no near-by traffic light to get me to the other side and suddenly trying to continue west seems like a bad idea. So I stomp north on Knight for a bit, and catch a bus to take me even farther north, where I’ll jump off and go walk through Strathcona for a while.

Off a bus at Clark & William, and I wander north-westish for a while and suddenly know where I am.

I’m on the edge of freight train tracks and if I follow them, I’ll slide in behind Parker Street Studios, a wonderfully delapidated collection of buildings that manage to stay upright and house lots of creative studios.

Yes, look! A mannequin at the door, and train tracks beyond.

These buildings and everything in/on/around them — all a tribute to creativity. (And survival.)

Lots of art up and down the outside walls, as I walk along the tracks-side of Parker Street Studios, but this free-standing tripod creation is my favourite:

Finally across the tracks and a bit farther north & west, and I’m in Strathcona. I zig and I zag and I stop for some lunch and much-needed glasses of water at the Wilder Snail café, and then I straight-line it across Keefer Street, heading for Main and a bus uphill to home.

I’m deep into Chinatown, practically at Main, when my eye is snagged by one more mural, in the alley just before the intersection.

Yucho Chow, yes.

I remember watching a documentary about his life and work, the city’s first professional Chinese photographer who, from 1906 to 1949, documented not just the lives of Chinese immigrants but of many other ethnicities as well — people who weren’t comfortable going to white photographers, given the power structures of the day. This link takes you to a portal page about Yucho Chow, because the page includes lots of video options as well as text websites, and shows his importance to our records of life in this city.

I keep reading the alley wall, and realize that one tribute leads to another.

Bottom left corner of the photo above, you’ll see the words “Time for changes” and a name, the name of the artist who painted this mural. The name is in black, hard to read: Smokey D.

I take a few steps farther into the alley, just past that wooden utility pole, and find the next tribute.

By Smokey D. to the city. (I later learn online that the City, in return, paid tribute to him by proclaiming March 11, 2023, his birthday, as Smokey D Day, honouring his artistry and activism on behalf of the Downtown East Side community.)

There’s one final tribute in all this, don’t you think?

To “positivity.”

I like that.

Project Icon

2 January 2024 – The challenge is: how many icons can I jam into my first post of the new year? Icons that say, “Vancouver in winter,” but also speak to my own obsessions.

Off I go.

Start with: alley + street art + H-frame hydro poles + distant mountains fading into the misty drizzle.

Add: False Creek + Science World dome + Aquabus ferry + orange Port of Vancouver “giraffes” + (audio only, take my word for it) the 12-noon Gastown Steam Clock rendition of O Canada.

Add: a dance of lines & spaces.

Add: a surprise. If your eyes are open, there is always a surprise. (Though not always as dramatic, or unfortunate, as this one east of the Cambie bridge.)

Add: the gleam of rust in the rain. (Here, the sewer-pipe “train engine” over a Hinge Park creek.)

Add: winter tree trunk moss, garnished with fernlets.

As I walk back south on Ontario Street, I think: It lacks only a crow.

And then, just north of East 5th, there he is!

Yes, yes, I know. He is white, and painted, and riding a skateboard. But I say he is a crow, and it’s my blog.

My year has begun.

  • WALKING… & SEEING

    "Traveller, there is no path. Paths are made by walking" -- Antonio Machado (1875-1939)

    "The voyage of discovery is not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes" -- Marcel Proust (1871-1922)

    "A city is a language, a repository of possibilities, and walking is the act of speaking that language, of selecting from those possibilities" -- Rebecca Solnit, "Wanderlust: A History of Walking"

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