18 March 2024 – I’m in Stanley Park, along with half of all Vancouver it seems, ready to enjoy this weekend burst of double-digit sunshine.
More precisely, I’m off the bus, through the underpass, and poised at the south-west curve of Lost Lagoon…
about to walk counter-clockwise and follow the trail east along the lagoon’s north shore.
Everything trembles on the edge of spring, unfurling new growth. Trees overhead, trees weeping downward to the water.
And, down there in the water, in the rich muck of the wetland, most wonderfully of all…
the fluorescent glow of the Western Skunk Cabbage. My first of the season. Now I know it’s spring!
The eastern variety is a more modest creature, it seems, so I forgive myself for being entirely ignorant of this plant until I moved west and was smacked in the eye by all that gold. (And also educated by You-Know-Who-You-Are.) Now I look for it each year, and give a little wriggle of joy at the first sighting.
On across Lost Lagoon, and on and on and then, though still in Stanley Park, I’m in entirely another world. I’m in all the noisy facilities-rich hoop-la of Second Beach.
Right where this red button says I am:
I turn right, head up the Seawall toward Third Beach. (Thank you, I murmur to the universe. I am so lucky, to be right here, right now, in all this.)
Here we all are, in all this.
Runners…
and cyclists/loungers/kiddies/adults/impromptu tents/storm-thrown stumps on Third Beach…
and rocks and freighters just off Ferguson Point…
and a tree with a heart…
and a patch of Seawall with its very own Cat-Angel…
and — after I’ve walked myself back south out of Stanley Park and into Morton Park — four Vancouver icons. All on view without turning my head.
Background, the renovated Berkeley Tower with its Douglas Coupland mosaics; mid-ground, Yue Minjun’s Ah-Mazeing-Laughter sculpture installation; right mid-ground, a cluster of Windmill Palms; and, tucked in their foreground shadow, some Canada Geese.
The day has me in sensory overload.
Yet, with all that wealth of input, one image keeps coming back to mind.
The north shore wetland of Lost Lagoon, the dabbling duck above the mossy rock on the left, the Skunk Cabbage on the right, and all that tender new greenery shooting up everywhere in-between.
15 March 2024 – It all begins at Kingsway & East Broadway, waiting for the lights to change. I look up.
Guide wires…
glide the # 8 trolley bus around the corner below, and adorn the sky above while they’re at it.
Next day, one neighbourhood to the west, gingerbread…
protects this vintage bay window, and adorns it as well.
Across the street in Major Matthews Park, rampant ferns…
will surely over time help destroy this pergola roof, but meanwhile adorn it very prettily.
Finally, this morning, an intentional rather than accidental green roof — the one atop the Visitor Centre at the VanDusen Botanical Garden. This solar chimney…
serves the planet, adorns the ceiling that it also pierces — and helps illustrate why the Centre won the 2014 World Architecture Most Sustainable Building Award.
8 March 2024 – As I walk back east along False Creek, I do not have a single Life Philosophy thought in my mind. Not a single abstract noun. I am just picking my feet up and putting them down again, enjoying the sunshine.
Then I see this neon glow in the water, just off a curve of seawall between Stamp’s Landing Dock and Spyglass Place Dock farther east.
Still no Important Thoughts in mind, just curiosity.
It’s not until I’m up close, and can identify the shape as a boat, that I think about vulnerability. There that little boat used to be, afloat and riding the currents — and there it now is, submerged and inert.
Vulnerability, consequences, responses. The dynamic is now lodged in my mind, and I see it all over the place as I walk on home.
In environmental and political vulnerabilities, for example, here at Spyglass Place Dock, where blue bands circle Cambie Bridge pilings and a quiet black tribute pillar stands at water’s edge.
The top blue tier in this 2012 art installation, A False Creek, is 5 metres above current sea levels — which is mid-way between the 4 to 6 metre rise that, it is predicted, could be triggered by climate change. The pillar honours Husain Rahim (1865-1937). He was an activist at the time of the 1914 SS Komagata Maru incident that barred a boatload of South Asian passengers from disembarking, and one of the first South Asians to challenge the disenfranchisement then taking place. While the ferry dock is still Spyglass Place, I learn that this space is now called Husain Rahim Plaza.
I’m about to walk on — and discover that I can’t.
Due to “the deteriorating condition of the structure supporting the seawall,” the path has been closed between the Cambie Bridge, right here, and Hinge Park to the east. Detour along West 1st, we are told, while authorities address this weakness.
Heading for 1st Avenue, I walk under the bridge, where I stop long enough to read this extraordinary beer-themed love letter chalked onto one of the pillars.
The message is fresh and wonderful, but street art by definition is ephemeral. Vulnerable. Just look above the top line for proof — the “Simply Jay” message has been effaced.
Eastward on West 1st Avenue now, and more vulnerability call-and-response.
The building in the foreground is one of the City’s Temporary Modular Housing facilities, created in response to what the City itself calls a crisis situation: “over 2,000 people are experiencing homelessness.” The rusty building farther along is an old, disused workshop from the area’s industrial past. It will surely fall down, or be knocked down, sometime soon.
Lying between those two buildings, and in behind the housing as well: an urban farm.
Sole Food Street Farms, founded in 2009, is now one of North America’s largest urban farms. This location trains & employs people from the Vancouver Downtown East Side, who grow the produce that is then sold & given away.
At Hinge Park, I can drop back to the waterfront. The railway tracks and buffers here at the south edge honour the past; the park itself is part of the pre-2010 Winter Olympics response to what had become a derelict and polluted wasteland.
Even my classy latte in an Olympic Village Square café reminds me of vulnerability! I have left it to sit just a little too long, and, look, the frothy design is beginning to deflate. (The taste, I promise you, is unaffected.)
Back outside, I admire TheBirds (Myfanwy MacLeod, 2010), gleaming in the sunshine.
The gleam is thanks to their fairly recent repatination; the repatination was the response to the vulnerability of their surface to all those climbing feet. Signage now politely reminds people that these sculptures are art, not a climbing wall, and asks us to keep our feet on the ground.
Heading south on Ontario Street, I detour half a block west into an alley, for a closer look at a face.
This face.
L’il Top is the signature, and if this bit of street art is vulnerable to time and the elements, so are those H-frame hydro poles. I, and countless Vancouver artists, love the look of them, but they are seriously outmoded, and systematically being replaced.
Back onto Ontario, farther south to West 6th, and my vulnerability theme now presents itself in a real-estate trio. The first thing I notice is that wavy reflection in the windows of the blocky new-build on the corner.
Then I play with the story, the trio of stories, the development dynamic of this bit of Mount Pleasant neighbourhood. Behind the new-build, a century-plus brick veteran, its status secure; in these windows, the reflection of the scruffy building across the street, wrapped in chain-link fencing, its status unclear.
Once the Teachers Centre for the Vancouver School Board (1972-1990s), it sits within the footprint of the T3 Mount Pleasant site now under construction — “T3” as in timber/transit/technology, with a planned 190,000 square feet of mass timber construction to attract environmentally responsible companies and workers. If the developer’s web page is any guide, at least part of this old building will be restored and repurposed as a heritage element in the mix.
Response to environmental threat is the theme of this part of Mount Pleasant. Along with the T3 building, it is also home to the emerging Main Alley Campus, which promises to provide “Canada’s first completely net-zero work environment for the creative economy.”
These two projects won’t save the planet, but it is heartening to see major development corporations put their weight behind new, more environmentally responsible, approaches.
I swing onto East 7th, and salute a building that has long known how to respond to changing threats — and here it still is, 112 years later.
Behold Quebec Manor, in all its diamond-patterned, bi-coloured brick glory. (Complete with metal balconies and nude maidens to welcome you home…) Built in 1912 as a luxury apartment hotel, probably for train passengers at the near-by terminals, it became rental units in the 1920s, and in the 1980s achieved new, secure status when its tenants bought the building and turned it into a housing co-op.
So that’s my walk, and how discouraging it could have been, with such a theme. But it wasn’t. So many vulnerabilities, yes — and so many responses, as well.
6 February 2024 – Having puttered my way along Commercial Drive, I am now zigzagging my way north-west through various neighbourhoods, making my way to Main Street and a bus on home.
No particular plan, so it’s sheer serendipity and pleasure to find myself on Charles Street looking north along McLean — the site of Mosaic Creek Park.
Hundreds of mosaic tiles form the “creek” running through this tiny park. It is the late-90s creation of a determined local coalition, the Britannia Neighbours Community Group, with the help of mosaic artists Glen Anderson and Marina Szijarto, who ran workshops and facilitated tile-making by any community member who wanted to take part.
The Park Board insisted the tiles be frost-proof, but set no artistic criteria. People were free to create whatever they wanted to create.
Agile fish, for example…
or a sleepy cat…
or wind-blown leaves…
or (why not) a dancing, prancing human being.
The two people on that corner bench, though relaxed and companionable, are not dancing. In raspy voices, they discuss strategies for getting your s**t together in rehab.
Farther down McLean, two dapper young businessmen stand side by side, eyeing a corner lot. In quick, clipped voices, they discuss marketing strategies for new builds.
2 February 2024 – The predicted torrents of rain didn’t take place, but it has been very drizzly. And very, very grey. Not the luminous grey that I so often celebrate, but a flat-matte grey that sucks contrast and depth from the scene.
Since it is double-digit mild as well as merely-moist-not-wet, I opt for a walk all along the Seawall from Devonian Harbour Park, at the edge of Stanley Park, to Canada Place downtown.
I am indeed “here,” right where it says I am, there at the lower left, and I set off.
But… how shall I put this… it is not very uplifting. Just a whole world of flat grey, merge-purging itself in blurry confusion out to the horizon. Our grand panoramic views are not at all grand, at the moment.
Well, sod the panoramic views. I shall instead look for details. Small, very bright details. In the red family, by preference.
And so I notice a bright orange bumper ring tucked around this boat in Bayshore West Marina…
a pair of red & mustard houseboats, punching through the polite blue & white of the Coal Harbour Marina…
a brazen life ring, admiring itself in the waters off Coal Harbour Quay…
a red & white seaplane, growling itself to life for its next run from the Vancouver Harbour Flight Centre out to the Gulf Islands…
a long view from the Convention Centre, on east past Canada Place to orange cranes in the Port beyond, poised over a cargo freighter…
and Douglas Coupland’s Digital Orca, right here at the edge of Jack Poole Plaza, dancing the pixillated dance that has been its signature since 2009.
12 January 2024 – But first, an acknowledgment. It is merely -11C as I write this, not (for e.g.) the -33C of Calgary nor the NWT temps that Lynette is recalling in her Baby It’s Cold post.
But still, for Vancouver, -11C is nippy. Yesterday, as Polar Vortex warnings hit our media and temperatures dropped to -3 or so, I decided I had to prove to myself that six years of Vancouver life had not rendered me incapable of going for a sub-zero walk.
Down to False Creek.
Snow-promising skies beginning to build, up there behind the World of Science dome…
and, by mid-afternoon, snow clouds massed even more dramatically all along the Coast Range Mountains.
It did snow.
Just a skiffle, nothing deep, but — given the temperatures — it has stayed on the ground.
Today, over those same Coast Range Mountains, the sunshine that comes with greater cold.
I bundle up once again. I am still not a wimp!
I decide I don’t need to go far: I can satisfy honour with a quick loop around Dude Chilling Park, and a respectful salute to The Dude himself en passant.
Other bundled-up people along the way (and some bundled-up dogs).
I reach the park. There’s The Dude.
With … what… something white… in the crook of his shoulder. Please don’t let it be litter, I murmur to myself. I’ve enjoyed, taken confidence from, the respect people show The Dude. Please let that continue.
Well of course it’s not litter.
It is the world’s smallest snowman, lovingly shaped and lovingly placed, cuddled up with The Dude.
Behind my face-scarf, I am all scrunched up with delight.
And then I take my tingling fingers back home, and wrap them around some hot chocolate.
2 January 2024 – The challenge is: how many icons can I jam into my first post of the new year? Icons that say, “Vancouver in winter,” but also speak to my own obsessions.
Off I go.
Start with: alley + street art + H-frame hydro poles + distant mountains fading into the misty drizzle.
Add: False Creek + Science World dome + Aquabus ferry + orange Port of Vancouver “giraffes” + (audio only, take my word for it) the 12-noon Gastown Steam Clock rendition of O Canada.
Add: a dance of lines & spaces.
Add: a surprise. If your eyes are open, there is always a surprise. (Though not always as dramatic, or unfortunate, as this one east of the Cambie bridge.)
Add: the gleam of rust in the rain. (Here, the sewer-pipe “train engine” over a Hinge Park creek.)
Add: winter tree trunk moss, garnished with fernlets.
As I walk back south on Ontario Street, I think: It lacks only a crow.
And then, just north of East 5th, there he is!
Yes, yes, I know. He is white, and painted, and riding a skateboard. But I say he is a crow, and it’s my blog.
"Traveller, there is no path. Paths are made by walking" -- Antonio Machado (1875-1939)
"The voyage of discovery is not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes" -- Marcel Proust (1871-1922)
"A city is a language, a repository of possibilities, and walking is the act of speaking that language, of selecting from those possibilities" -- Rebecca Solnit, "Wanderlust: A History of Walking"