The Skunks of Spring

18 March 2024 – I’m in Stanley Park, along with half of all Vancouver it seems, ready to enjoy this weekend burst of double-digit sunshine.

More precisely, I’m off the bus, through the underpass, and poised at the south-west curve of Lost Lagoon…

about to walk counter-clockwise and follow the trail east along the lagoon’s north shore.

Everything trembles on the edge of spring, unfurling new growth. Trees overhead, trees weeping downward to the water.

And, down there in the water, in the rich muck of the wetland, most wonderfully of all…

the fluorescent glow of the Western Skunk Cabbage. My first of the season. Now I know it’s spring!

The eastern variety is a more modest creature, it seems, so I forgive myself for being entirely ignorant of this plant until I moved west and was smacked in the eye by all that gold. (And also educated by You-Know-Who-You-Are.) Now I look for it each year, and give a little wriggle of joy at the first sighting.

On across Lost Lagoon, and on and on and then, though still in Stanley Park, I’m in entirely another world. I’m in all the noisy facilities-rich hoop-la of Second Beach.

Right where this red button says I am:

I turn right, head up the Seawall toward Third Beach. (Thank you, I murmur to the universe. I am so lucky, to be right here, right now, in all this.)

Here we all are, in all this.

Runners…

and cyclists/loungers/kiddies/adults/impromptu tents/storm-thrown stumps on Third Beach…

and rocks and freighters just off Ferguson Point…

and a tree with a heart…

and a patch of Seawall with its very own Cat-Angel…

and — after I’ve walked myself back south out of Stanley Park and into Morton Park — four Vancouver icons. All on view without turning my head.

Background, the renovated Berkeley Tower with its Douglas Coupland mosaics; mid-ground, Yue Minjun’s Ah-Mazeing-Laughter sculpture installation; right mid-ground, a cluster of Windmill Palms; and, tucked in their foreground shadow, some Canada Geese.

The day has me in sensory overload.

Yet, with all that wealth of input, one image keeps coming back to mind.

The north shore wetland of Lost Lagoon, the dabbling duck above the mossy rock on the left, the Skunk Cabbage on the right, and all that tender new greenery shooting up everywhere in-between.

Spring.

Vulnerable

8 March 2024 – As I walk back east along False Creek, I do not have a single Life Philosophy thought in my mind. Not a single abstract noun. I am just picking my feet up and putting them down again, enjoying the sunshine.

Then I see this neon glow in the water, just off a curve of seawall between Stamp’s Landing Dock and Spyglass Place Dock farther east.

Still no Important Thoughts in mind, just curiosity.

It’s not until I’m up close, and can identify the shape as a boat, that I think about vulnerability. There that little boat used to be, afloat and riding the currents — and there it now is, submerged and inert.

Vulnerability, consequences, responses. The dynamic is now lodged in my mind, and I see it all over the place as I walk on home.

In environmental and political vulnerabilities, for example, here at Spyglass Place Dock, where blue bands circle Cambie Bridge pilings and a quiet black tribute pillar stands at water’s edge.

The top blue tier in this 2012 art installation, A False Creek, is 5 metres above current sea levels — which is mid-way between the 4 to 6 metre rise that, it is predicted, could be triggered by climate change. The pillar honours Husain Rahim (1865-1937). He was an activist at the time of the 1914 SS Komagata Maru incident that barred a boatload of South Asian passengers from disembarking, and one of the first South Asians to challenge the disenfranchisement then taking place. While the ferry dock is still Spyglass Place, I learn that this space is now called Husain Rahim Plaza.

I’m about to walk on — and discover that I can’t.

Due to “the deteriorating condition of the structure supporting the seawall,” the path has been closed between the Cambie Bridge, right here, and Hinge Park to the east. Detour along West 1st, we are told, while authorities address this weakness.

Heading for 1st Avenue, I walk under the bridge, where I stop long enough to read this extraordinary beer-themed love letter chalked onto one of the pillars.

The message is fresh and wonderful, but street art by definition is ephemeral. Vulnerable. Just look above the top line for proof — the “Simply Jay” message has been effaced.

Eastward on West 1st Avenue now, and more vulnerability call-and-response.

The building in the foreground is one of the City’s Temporary Modular Housing facilities, created in response to what the City itself calls a crisis situation: “over 2,000 people are experiencing homelessness.” The rusty building farther along is an old, disused workshop from the area’s industrial past. It will surely fall down, or be knocked down, sometime soon.

Lying between those two buildings, and in behind the housing as well: an urban farm.

Sole Food Street Farms, founded in 2009, is now one of North America’s largest urban farms. This location trains & employs people from the Vancouver Downtown East Side, who grow the produce that is then sold & given away.

At Hinge Park, I can drop back to the waterfront. The railway tracks and buffers here at the south edge honour the past; the park itself is part of the pre-2010 Winter Olympics response to what had become a derelict and polluted wasteland.

Even my classy latte in an Olympic Village Square café reminds me of vulnerability! I have left it to sit just a little too long, and, look, the frothy design is beginning to deflate. (The taste, I promise you, is unaffected.)

Back outside, I admire The Birds (Myfanwy MacLeod, 2010), gleaming in the sunshine.

The gleam is thanks to their fairly recent repatination; the repatination was the response to the vulnerability of their surface to all those climbing feet. Signage now politely reminds people that these sculptures are art, not a climbing wall, and asks us to keep our feet on the ground.

Heading south on Ontario Street, I detour half a block west into an alley, for a closer look at a face.

This face.

L’il Top is the signature, and if this bit of street art is vulnerable to time and the elements, so are those H-frame hydro poles. I, and countless Vancouver artists, love the look of them, but they are seriously outmoded, and systematically being replaced.

Back onto Ontario, farther south to West 6th, and my vulnerability theme now presents itself in a real-estate trio. The first thing I notice is that wavy reflection in the windows of the blocky new-build on the corner.

Then I play with the story, the trio of stories, the development dynamic of this bit of Mount Pleasant neighbourhood. Behind the new-build, a century-plus brick veteran, its status secure; in these windows, the reflection of the scruffy building across the street, wrapped in chain-link fencing, its status unclear.

Once the Teachers Centre for the Vancouver School Board (1972-1990s), it sits within the footprint of the T3 Mount Pleasant site now under construction — “T3” as in timber/transit/technology, with a planned 190,000 square feet of mass timber construction to attract environmentally responsible companies and workers. If the developer’s web page is any guide, at least part of this old building will be restored and repurposed as a heritage element in the mix.

Response to environmental threat is the theme of this part of Mount Pleasant. Along with the T3 building, it is also home to the emerging Main Alley Campus, which promises to provide “Canada’s first completely net-zero work environment for the creative economy.”

These two projects won’t save the planet, but it is heartening to see major development corporations put their weight behind new, more environmentally responsible, approaches.

I swing onto East 7th, and salute a building that has long known how to respond to changing threats — and here it still is, 112 years later.

Behold Quebec Manor, in all its diamond-patterned, bi-coloured brick glory. (Complete with metal balconies and nude maidens to welcome you home…) Built in 1912 as a luxury apartment hotel, probably for train passengers at the near-by terminals, it became rental units in the 1920s, and in the 1980s achieved new, secure status when its tenants bought the building and turned it into a housing co-op.

So that’s my walk, and how discouraging it could have been, with such a theme. But it wasn’t. So many vulnerabilities, yes — and so many responses, as well.

The Owl and the Paint Pot

21 February 2024 – Move over, Pussy-Cat. The owl has a new companion.

I’m at the corner of West 10th & Columbia, heading east, and I am stopped in my tracks by an owl.

A real owl would seriously stop me in my tracks; this one is not real, but still unexpected and worth some attention. He is dangling from a traffic sign that promises you death & dismemberment if you even think about parking here.

It’s only after I move closer to contemplate the macramé shades-of-the-70s owl, that I really take in the heritage house in the background.

Which certainly deserves my attention.

The Owl and the Painted Lady! I murmur to myself.

And, with that, I forget Edward Lear and think about Painted Ladies. Painted Ladies in heritage neighbourhoods.

The best-known reference, especially outside Canada, would be to San Francisco and its line of brightly painted Victorian homes along the eastern side of Alamo Square Park. Former Torontonian that I am, I think instead of the Painted Ladies of Cabbagetown.

Of one in particular. Rather, the story of one in particular, told to me by the friend who lived next door and whose teenage daughter played (literally) a starring role. Picture the scene. We are in a Victorian home, among others of that vintage, on this street, in this comfortable neighbourhood.

The daughter is practising Bach on the piano in the bay window alcove, with the windows wide open in the summer heat. Next door, a painter is climbing up and down the ladder as he works on that home’s wooden fish-scale façade. The girl pays him no mind, not until she looks up to find him standing right outside her window. She is surprised at the sight; even more surprised when he — politely but firmly — describes very specific ways for her to improve her technique. Who the hell does he think he is? is her first sulky teenage thought. She stifles it. Because, damn it, he does sound like he knows a lot about music.

Turns out, he does. The woman next door tells her mum that the painter, in his previous career, had been a member of the original Orford String Quartet (1965-1991, reborn in 2009 as the New Orford String Quartet with different members). In his new career, he is now creating visual rather than aural music, shimmering cascades of colour rather than sound.

I sink into this memory for a bit, think about my friend’s home, and my admiration for the eventual beauty of that house next door. Then I snap myself back to the here-and-now. I am about to walk on, when I notice a sign on the street-corner lamp post. Always a sucker for signage, I trot across the street to read it.

The Vancouver Park Board seems only to have run the contest those two years — main criterion “community spirit… as demonstrated through block beautification” — and this block of West 10th won both times.

I’m afraid I short-change you for the rest of the block; I take no more photos. But back in 2009, somebody walked the block with delight, and posted the results to his public Flickr stream.

So enjoy the photos, chase up some Orford (original and New) performances online, and then rejoice in all the ways we humans can create beauty.

Some Red in the Grey

2 February 2024 – The predicted torrents of rain didn’t take place, but it has been very drizzly. And very, very grey. Not the luminous grey that I so often celebrate, but a flat-matte grey that sucks contrast and depth from the scene.

Since it is double-digit mild as well as merely-moist-not-wet, I opt for a walk all along the Seawall from Devonian Harbour Park, at the edge of Stanley Park, to Canada Place downtown.

I am indeed “here,” right where it says I am, there at the lower left, and I set off.

But… how shall I put this… it is not very uplifting. Just a whole world of flat grey, merge-purging itself in blurry confusion out to the horizon. Our grand panoramic views are not at all grand, at the moment.

Well, sod the panoramic views. I shall instead look for details. Small, very bright details. In the red family, by preference.

And so I notice a bright orange bumper ring tucked around this boat in Bayshore West Marina…

a pair of red & mustard houseboats, punching through the polite blue & white of the Coal Harbour Marina…

a brazen life ring, admiring itself in the waters off Coal Harbour Quay…

a red & white seaplane, growling itself to life for its next run from the Vancouver Harbour Flight Centre out to the Gulf Islands…

a long view from the Convention Centre, on east past Canada Place to orange cranes in the Port beyond, poised over a cargo freighter…

and Douglas Coupland’s Digital Orca, right here at the edge of Jack Poole Plaza, dancing the pixillated dance that has been its signature since 2009.

Where’s the red, you ask?

That witch hazel on the left, already in bloom.

Project Icon

2 January 2024 – The challenge is: how many icons can I jam into my first post of the new year? Icons that say, “Vancouver in winter,” but also speak to my own obsessions.

Off I go.

Start with: alley + street art + H-frame hydro poles + distant mountains fading into the misty drizzle.

Add: False Creek + Science World dome + Aquabus ferry + orange Port of Vancouver “giraffes” + (audio only, take my word for it) the 12-noon Gastown Steam Clock rendition of O Canada.

Add: a dance of lines & spaces.

Add: a surprise. If your eyes are open, there is always a surprise. (Though not always as dramatic, or unfortunate, as this one east of the Cambie bridge.)

Add: the gleam of rust in the rain. (Here, the sewer-pipe “train engine” over a Hinge Park creek.)

Add: winter tree trunk moss, garnished with fernlets.

As I walk back south on Ontario Street, I think: It lacks only a crow.

And then, just north of East 5th, there he is!

Yes, yes, I know. He is white, and painted, and riding a skateboard. But I say he is a crow, and it’s my blog.

My year has begun.

Walk, Talk, Rock… B.C.-style

31 August — Just back from a six-day escape to Vancouver and the Lower Mainland of British Columbia, visiting much-loved family and friends in an area that always uplifts me.

I say “much-loved” for many reasons, but after all these decades recognize that one of them is the resonance added by sheer passage of time. Part of the worth is in the while — a concept I borrow from John Fowles, who first deconstructed “worthwhile” this way in his 1964 book of personal philosophy, The Aristos.

Count back on your fingers and, yes, I posted “King, Queen and Moose” not from Toronto, but from the home of my friends Sally and Owen in North Vancouver. I sat there at Sal’s laptop, looking out over their back yard to the fence dividing it from the trees and shrubs of Mount Seymour Provincial Park immediately beyond.

The shrubs include blackberry bushes, up against the fence. Which means ripening blackberries are more than a sign of changing seasons, they signal potential danger. Black bears love blackberries, and literally turn gate-crasher on occasion, once they’re that close to residential properties with other potential sources of food.

(Sally once emailed me the photo of a black bear foraging in their yard. All I could send in return was a raccoon sleeping in my birdbath.)

Of course the visit included some hiking about! You can’t be in British Columbia, halfway up a mountain, and not go walking. First target, Old Buck Trail, which sets off halfway up Mount Seymour Road. Various other trails split off, such as this Empress Bypass option, but I stuck with the main trail.

I hadn’t brought my pedometer, and settled for a 90-minute outing instead right on Old Buck itself. First I went up (and in these mountain ranges, up is up), awe-struck by the huge stumps of long-ago trees. Yes, I’ve seen them before, but they never fail to move me.

Somewhere beyond here, short of the Baden Powell junction but not by much, I turned about.

At least as high as I went, the trail was much like this — a smooth, clear dirt path.

Just as the ancient stumps move me, so do the great columns of contemporary tall trees. The path moves gently among them, and I think a bit about paths, and making one’s path (thank you, Antonio Machado), physically and otherwise.

I remember, too, that tai chi is sometimes described as “walking meditation.” I don’t specifically meditate when I walk, but I do usually feel myself expanding out into my surroundings, somehow.

Then, sometimes, the elegant columns of trees give way to great bursts of nature’s very own mixed media: rock and moss and other layered vegetation and spikey remnants of old logs and forest, forest, forest.

But no, I don’t spend the whole six days in the woods.

Soon I’m deserting this far corner of North Van for a visit to Vancouver proper — across Burrard Inlet by Seabus, then south on the Canada Line (built for the 2010 Vancouver Winter Olympics), and out onto Cambie St. at Broadway. Where I grabbed this shot northward up Cambie, sightlines back to North Vancouver and the framing mountains beyond.

Mountains and ocean, Vancouver is the Rio of the north.

But even here, walking with my friends Louise and Rolf through residential streets over to Main Street and then south… even in this dense bit of cityscape, there’s still great exuberant nature. (When I lived in Calgary, a semi-desert climate, and came visiting, the sheer humid profligacy of Vancouver’s nature always smacked me in the eye and up the nose.)

My friends waited cheerfully while I eyed the detail of growth on city trees. Like this one.

We had lunch one place, lattes somewhere else, prowled shops with strong design sense… and finally good-bye and back north I went, retracing my way via the Canada Line to the Seabus again. Where I was charmed by these little girls, their noses pressed against the ferry’s front window, party balloons to one side.

Another walk, still in North Van and on Mount Seymour, but setting out from the little community of Deep Cove.

 That’s Sally’s back, in an early stretch of our chosen hike, up the Baden Powell Trail to the Deep Cove Lookout. The lookout is aka Quarry Rock — indeed a succession of big old rocks, but no sign anywhere of past let alone present quarrying. So, go figure.

Sal characterized this as an up-and-down trail, probably an hour each way. The footing was at times smooth and the path gently curving, but in other places the path twisted narrowly among trees and boulders, intensely scored with tree roots and rocks.

It was also much less solitary than my Old Buck outing! Then again, a weekend morning vs weekday. More people than we really wanted — oh, the cherished illusion of being alone in nature — but at least everybody observed pretty good trail etiquette.

Even the dogs behaved themselves. Including a snowy white little pooch who clearly had been having a wonderful time in mucky streams. Her owner observed her four black legs, and quipped, “Her name is Emma, but we may have to call her Boots.”

Finally there we were on Quarry Rock, looking over the Indian Arm inlet of the ocean, with the village of Deep Cove itself hidden away to the right.

Going back down, I lost track for a moment. So many ups and downs enroute… where we really descending? Yes, we were. Sometimes on the twisty paths I described above, sometimes on stairways pressed against rock faces, like this.

Yah, finally, indeed down and walking along the Deep Cove beach, with all the boats bobbing in the water and great red and yellow blocks of kayaks set out, waiting their turn for some action.

We consider hanging around for Deep Cove Daze [sic], but resist.

It’s going to be all the usual late-summer, small-community mix of booths and games and noise and T-shirts and organizations with their  tables… and it is tempting… but we have other plans.

Which involve lunch on a patio elsewhere, so it’s easy to leave. But not before paying tribute to this metric flower bed!

One last walk, days later and down in the Lower Mainland where I’ve joined family for the final few days of my trip. Karen and I head out to Watershed Park in Surrey, one that she and husband Tim know well, both on foot and on their bikes.

I’m luxuriating all over again in the sights and smells and texture underfoot of these west-coast trails. Some of the scenes are the sort of thing I anticipate…

But some are not!

At first I tut-tutted, a graffito in such a setting. Then I realized I rather liked the face — just a bit Picasso-esque, don’t you think? And also realized it is if anything an improvement on the concrete ruin it adorns.

This last photo takes us back to West Coast Classic, and is a bit of a cheat. Well, only in time, not in place.

I took this photo of a “nurse log” right here in Watershed Park, but some years ago. Karen had explained the phenomenon to me, that of an old rotting log nurturing new life, and I remember being so happy to find such a good example of it.

And now I’m home. Posting this from Toronto, and planning my next walk right here…

Hello world!

12 January — And especially, hello to my supporters, the people who have put their money and their encouragement behind this big project of mine, and want me to stay in touch as I prepare for it. You’re why I’m blogging! (Another new experience…)

I’ll be writing about my adventures as I do my Central Y workouts 3 days/week, and walk city neighbourhoods and park systems another 3 days/week. When I think about my friend training for the Boston Marathon, or the one who hiked the Chilkoot Trail, I realize this Iceland trek (6 days, 12-17 km/day, 5 nights camping) isn’t that big a deal. But it’s my deal — and yours too, because you’re helping me.

So bear with me while I figure out this blogging thing. This site (like my body) will rapidly improve.

(If you fell on this blog by chance, and don’t know what I’m talking about, check out http://arthritis.akaraisin.com/onjim/icelandpenny.)

’til later!

  • WALKING… & SEEING

    "Traveller, there is no path. Paths are made by walking" -- Antonio Machado (1875-1939)

    "The voyage of discovery is not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes" -- Marcel Proust (1871-1922)

    "A city is a language, a repository of possibilities, and walking is the act of speaking that language, of selecting from those possibilities" -- Rebecca Solnit, "Wanderlust: A History of Walking"

  • Recent Posts

  • Walk, Talk, Rock… B.C.-style

  • Post Categories

  • Archives

  • Blog Stats

    • 131,555 hits
  • Since 14 August 2014

    Flag Counter
  • Enter your email address to follow this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email.

    Join 2,051 other subscribers