Some Red in the Grey

2 February 2024 – The predicted torrents of rain didn’t take place, but it has been very drizzly. And very, very grey. Not the luminous grey that I so often celebrate, but a flat-matte grey that sucks contrast and depth from the scene.

Since it is double-digit mild as well as merely-moist-not-wet, I opt for a walk all along the Seawall from Devonian Harbour Park, at the edge of Stanley Park, to Canada Place downtown.

I am indeed “here,” right where it says I am, there at the lower left, and I set off.

But… how shall I put this… it is not very uplifting. Just a whole world of flat grey, merge-purging itself in blurry confusion out to the horizon. Our grand panoramic views are not at all grand, at the moment.

Well, sod the panoramic views. I shall instead look for details. Small, very bright details. In the red family, by preference.

And so I notice a bright orange bumper ring tucked around this boat in Bayshore West Marina…

a pair of red & mustard houseboats, punching through the polite blue & white of the Coal Harbour Marina…

a brazen life ring, admiring itself in the waters off Coal Harbour Quay…

a red & white seaplane, growling itself to life for its next run from the Vancouver Harbour Flight Centre out to the Gulf Islands…

a long view from the Convention Centre, on east past Canada Place to orange cranes in the Port beyond, poised over a cargo freighter…

and Douglas Coupland’s Digital Orca, right here at the edge of Jack Poole Plaza, dancing the pixillated dance that has been its signature since 2009.

Where’s the red, you ask?

That witch hazel on the left, already in bloom.

Dawn’s Early (Reflected) Light

29 January 2024 – 7:35:15 a.m.; right here at 49.2827° N 123.1207° W; this very morning.

The calm before the anticipated next series of storms: “Heavy rain will persist into the first half of the week as a stubborn atmospheric river lingers over British Columbia.”

Fibres & Fraud

17 January 2024 – Both at the Vancouver Art Gallery, fortunately not in the same exhibit.

Even so, each affected us in much the same way. We emerged stimulated, better informed, and hopeful about the kind of future trends that each show seems to suggest. What a happy way to spend a cold afternoon early in the new year!

— First up, the fibres —

Rooted Here: Woven From the Land

As the VAG website description explains, “This exhibition makes clear the vital integration of weaving throughout traditional and contemporary Salish cultures…” It features the work of four renowned Coast Salish artists (Angela George, Chief Janice George, Willard (Buddy) Joseph and Debra Sparrow) and includes both hangings…

with explanations…

and an installation of videos and draped mannequins.

Beautiful work, enriched by trends — trends that are now carrying the “integration” cited by that VAG intro beyond the Coast Salish peoples and bringing it into the larger context shared by us all.

In 2018, Debra Sparrow, Angela George and Willard (Buddy) George began collaborating with the Vancouver Mural Festival in a continuing project called Blanketing the City. , — a project through which they are bringing these design motifs into the city’s found architecture.

Now all four artists have moved beyond existing street structures to bespoke design for a $400-million new build. In collaboration with Swiss architects Herzog & de Meuron, they have designed the copper cladding…

for the future home of the Vancouver Art Gallery.

Some project material is included in the exhibit; I came home and promptly looked for more, especially in the detailed presentation on the architects’ own project design pages.

— And now for the fraud —

J.E.H. MacDonald? A Tangled Garden

Do please pay attention to that question mark.

We have here an entire exhibition, a detailed exhibition, devoted to ten sketches that were received with triumph in 2015 and are now acknowledged to be forgeries. That is to say:

  • Not ten sketches, by Group of Seven co-founder J.E.H. MacDonald, for a subsequent oil painting in each case.
  • Instead, ten sketches by Anonymous, after an authenticated oil painting in each case.

As with the exhibition’s question mark, so with its careful use of prepositions.

What an extraordinary show! A whole show built around a major institution saying, “We got that wrong. What looked right, was wrong.” And then documenting the almost nine years of investigation that produced the final verdict.

Appropriately, the lead image for this entangled story is the sketch after (not for!) MacDonald’s painting, The Tangled Garden.

What they’re still not telling us is whether the Toronto dealer and the Toronto art collectors who offered these works were themselves duped or part of the duplicity. What we do know is that very soon after the VAG trumpeted its exciting acquisition, the larger art community began to ask questions.

As best I understand it, the VAG initially responded in the well-established global tradition for handling such moments. It stone-walled.

But then, with a new CEO and the courageous example of Ian Thom (the then-Senior Curator who had brought in the acquisition), the VAG decided instead to conduct a thorough investigation, and share what they learned. Art historians, art experts at other institutions (e.g. National Gallery of Canada) and forensic scientists (e.g. the Canadian Conservation Institute of the federal Dept. of Canadian Heritage) all took part. As Ian Thom said, in the excellent video documenting all this work, “I thought this one of the great experiences of my life. Then it just got worse and worse.”

But for us out here, it just got better and better. A major institution, willing to acknowledge it had been conned? Willing to do the investigation, and then not quietly shelve it, and deep-six the works, but build an entire exhibition around those discoveries? Willing to acknowledge that fraud is as much part of the art scene as art itself? Willing to reveal its own stories, and educate the rest of us?

How wonderful it would be, if this trend caught on.

Come see the show, if you can manage to be in Vancouver any time before May 12. It includes some of the well-authenticated Group of Seven works in the VAG collection, but hits stride once it zeroes in on the investigation: the people, the skills, the tenacity, that led to the final results.

And if you can’t make it to town, dive into this story of art + forensics in various sources online: everybody from Stir to The Art Newspaper, to Galleries West, to the VAG itself. And more.

To The Dude & Back

12 January 2024 – But first, an acknowledgment. It is merely -11C as I write this, not (for e.g.) the -33C of Calgary nor the NWT temps that Lynette is recalling in her Baby It’s Cold post.

But still, for Vancouver, -11C is nippy. Yesterday, as Polar Vortex warnings hit our media and temperatures dropped to -3 or so, I decided I had to prove to myself that six years of Vancouver life had not rendered me incapable of going for a sub-zero walk.

Down to False Creek.

Snow-promising skies beginning to build, up there behind the World of Science dome…

and, by mid-afternoon, snow clouds massed even more dramatically all along the Coast Range Mountains.

It did snow.

Just a skiffle, nothing deep, but — given the temperatures — it has stayed on the ground.

Today, over those same Coast Range Mountains, the sunshine that comes with greater cold.

I bundle up once again. I am still not a wimp!

I decide I don’t need to go far: I can satisfy honour with a quick loop around Dude Chilling Park, and a respectful salute to The Dude himself en passant.

Other bundled-up people along the way (and some bundled-up dogs).

I reach the park. There’s The Dude.

With … what… something white… in the crook of his shoulder. Please don’t let it be litter, I murmur to myself. I’ve enjoyed, taken confidence from, the respect people show The Dude. Please let that continue.

Well of course it’s not litter.

It is the world’s smallest snowman, lovingly shaped and lovingly placed, cuddled up with The Dude.

Behind my face-scarf, I am all scrunched up with delight.

And then I take my tingling fingers back home, and wrap them around some hot chocolate.

Water

8 January 2024 – Lots of water.

Horizontal & vertical. By day, by night.

Horizontal water, under daytime ducks…

vertical water, all over the night-time city.

Hah, says the looming Polar Vortex, unimpressed.

Water? It will be snow & ice by mid-week.

Project Icon

2 January 2024 – The challenge is: how many icons can I jam into my first post of the new year? Icons that say, “Vancouver in winter,” but also speak to my own obsessions.

Off I go.

Start with: alley + street art + H-frame hydro poles + distant mountains fading into the misty drizzle.

Add: False Creek + Science World dome + Aquabus ferry + orange Port of Vancouver “giraffes” + (audio only, take my word for it) the 12-noon Gastown Steam Clock rendition of O Canada.

Add: a dance of lines & spaces.

Add: a surprise. If your eyes are open, there is always a surprise. (Though not always as dramatic, or unfortunate, as this one east of the Cambie bridge.)

Add: the gleam of rust in the rain. (Here, the sewer-pipe “train engine” over a Hinge Park creek.)

Add: winter tree trunk moss, garnished with fernlets.

As I walk back south on Ontario Street, I think: It lacks only a crow.

And then, just north of East 5th, there he is!

Yes, yes, I know. He is white, and painted, and riding a skateboard. But I say he is a crow, and it’s my blog.

My year has begun.

Walk, Talk, Rock… B.C.-style

31 August — Just back from a six-day escape to Vancouver and the Lower Mainland of British Columbia, visiting much-loved family and friends in an area that always uplifts me.

I say “much-loved” for many reasons, but after all these decades recognize that one of them is the resonance added by sheer passage of time. Part of the worth is in the while — a concept I borrow from John Fowles, who first deconstructed “worthwhile” this way in his 1964 book of personal philosophy, The Aristos.

Count back on your fingers and, yes, I posted “King, Queen and Moose” not from Toronto, but from the home of my friends Sally and Owen in North Vancouver. I sat there at Sal’s laptop, looking out over their back yard to the fence dividing it from the trees and shrubs of Mount Seymour Provincial Park immediately beyond.

The shrubs include blackberry bushes, up against the fence. Which means ripening blackberries are more than a sign of changing seasons, they signal potential danger. Black bears love blackberries, and literally turn gate-crasher on occasion, once they’re that close to residential properties with other potential sources of food.

(Sally once emailed me the photo of a black bear foraging in their yard. All I could send in return was a raccoon sleeping in my birdbath.)

Of course the visit included some hiking about! You can’t be in British Columbia, halfway up a mountain, and not go walking. First target, Old Buck Trail, which sets off halfway up Mount Seymour Road. Various other trails split off, such as this Empress Bypass option, but I stuck with the main trail.

I hadn’t brought my pedometer, and settled for a 90-minute outing instead right on Old Buck itself. First I went up (and in these mountain ranges, up is up), awe-struck by the huge stumps of long-ago trees. Yes, I’ve seen them before, but they never fail to move me.

Somewhere beyond here, short of the Baden Powell junction but not by much, I turned about.

At least as high as I went, the trail was much like this — a smooth, clear dirt path.

Just as the ancient stumps move me, so do the great columns of contemporary tall trees. The path moves gently among them, and I think a bit about paths, and making one’s path (thank you, Antonio Machado), physically and otherwise.

I remember, too, that tai chi is sometimes described as “walking meditation.” I don’t specifically meditate when I walk, but I do usually feel myself expanding out into my surroundings, somehow.

Then, sometimes, the elegant columns of trees give way to great bursts of nature’s very own mixed media: rock and moss and other layered vegetation and spikey remnants of old logs and forest, forest, forest.

But no, I don’t spend the whole six days in the woods.

Soon I’m deserting this far corner of North Van for a visit to Vancouver proper — across Burrard Inlet by Seabus, then south on the Canada Line (built for the 2010 Vancouver Winter Olympics), and out onto Cambie St. at Broadway. Where I grabbed this shot northward up Cambie, sightlines back to North Vancouver and the framing mountains beyond.

Mountains and ocean, Vancouver is the Rio of the north.

But even here, walking with my friends Louise and Rolf through residential streets over to Main Street and then south… even in this dense bit of cityscape, there’s still great exuberant nature. (When I lived in Calgary, a semi-desert climate, and came visiting, the sheer humid profligacy of Vancouver’s nature always smacked me in the eye and up the nose.)

My friends waited cheerfully while I eyed the detail of growth on city trees. Like this one.

We had lunch one place, lattes somewhere else, prowled shops with strong design sense… and finally good-bye and back north I went, retracing my way via the Canada Line to the Seabus again. Where I was charmed by these little girls, their noses pressed against the ferry’s front window, party balloons to one side.

Another walk, still in North Van and on Mount Seymour, but setting out from the little community of Deep Cove.

 That’s Sally’s back, in an early stretch of our chosen hike, up the Baden Powell Trail to the Deep Cove Lookout. The lookout is aka Quarry Rock — indeed a succession of big old rocks, but no sign anywhere of past let alone present quarrying. So, go figure.

Sal characterized this as an up-and-down trail, probably an hour each way. The footing was at times smooth and the path gently curving, but in other places the path twisted narrowly among trees and boulders, intensely scored with tree roots and rocks.

It was also much less solitary than my Old Buck outing! Then again, a weekend morning vs weekday. More people than we really wanted — oh, the cherished illusion of being alone in nature — but at least everybody observed pretty good trail etiquette.

Even the dogs behaved themselves. Including a snowy white little pooch who clearly had been having a wonderful time in mucky streams. Her owner observed her four black legs, and quipped, “Her name is Emma, but we may have to call her Boots.”

Finally there we were on Quarry Rock, looking over the Indian Arm inlet of the ocean, with the village of Deep Cove itself hidden away to the right.

Going back down, I lost track for a moment. So many ups and downs enroute… where we really descending? Yes, we were. Sometimes on the twisty paths I described above, sometimes on stairways pressed against rock faces, like this.

Yah, finally, indeed down and walking along the Deep Cove beach, with all the boats bobbing in the water and great red and yellow blocks of kayaks set out, waiting their turn for some action.

We consider hanging around for Deep Cove Daze [sic], but resist.

It’s going to be all the usual late-summer, small-community mix of booths and games and noise and T-shirts and organizations with their  tables… and it is tempting… but we have other plans.

Which involve lunch on a patio elsewhere, so it’s easy to leave. But not before paying tribute to this metric flower bed!

One last walk, days later and down in the Lower Mainland where I’ve joined family for the final few days of my trip. Karen and I head out to Watershed Park in Surrey, one that she and husband Tim know well, both on foot and on their bikes.

I’m luxuriating all over again in the sights and smells and texture underfoot of these west-coast trails. Some of the scenes are the sort of thing I anticipate…

But some are not!

At first I tut-tutted, a graffito in such a setting. Then I realized I rather liked the face — just a bit Picasso-esque, don’t you think? And also realized it is if anything an improvement on the concrete ruin it adorns.

This last photo takes us back to West Coast Classic, and is a bit of a cheat. Well, only in time, not in place.

I took this photo of a “nurse log” right here in Watershed Park, but some years ago. Karen had explained the phenomenon to me, that of an old rotting log nurturing new life, and I remember being so happy to find such a good example of it.

And now I’m home. Posting this from Toronto, and planning my next walk right here…

Hello world!

12 January — And especially, hello to my supporters, the people who have put their money and their encouragement behind this big project of mine, and want me to stay in touch as I prepare for it. You’re why I’m blogging! (Another new experience…)

I’ll be writing about my adventures as I do my Central Y workouts 3 days/week, and walk city neighbourhoods and park systems another 3 days/week. When I think about my friend training for the Boston Marathon, or the one who hiked the Chilkoot Trail, I realize this Iceland trek (6 days, 12-17 km/day, 5 nights camping) isn’t that big a deal. But it’s my deal — and yours too, because you’re helping me.

So bear with me while I figure out this blogging thing. This site (like my body) will rapidly improve.

(If you fell on this blog by chance, and don’t know what I’m talking about, check out http://arthritis.akaraisin.com/onjim/icelandpenny.)

’til later!

  • WALKING… & SEEING

    "Traveller, there is no path. Paths are made by walking" -- Antonio Machado (1875-1939)

    "The voyage of discovery is not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes" -- Marcel Proust (1871-1922)

    "A city is a language, a repository of possibilities, and walking is the act of speaking that language, of selecting from those possibilities" -- Rebecca Solnit, "Wanderlust: A History of Walking"

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