Sun X 2

15 March 2026 – Needles of rain and 5C as I start this post, but we’ve just had two consecutive days of sunshine. The first unexpected, the second predicted, and both a reason to go walk by the water.

Certain the gloom will persist or worsen, we linger over a long café lunch. Suddenly the sky is bright, so we abandon indoors and set off for Kitsilano Beach. Our route takes us north on Cypress Street — where of course I notice winter moss.

By now, it’s not the only act in town. Plum blossoms are out everywhere you look, including right here.

We could stick with Cypress and get to the water the obvious way, but we don’t.

This alley…

offers one bright garage door, plus a less-obvious way to reach the water, from another angle.

Once there, a pole-top gull — undoubtedly in the pay of the tourist board — welcomes us to English Bay and a long view of all those freighters waiting their turn to carry on down Burrard Inlet to the Port of Vancouver.

Smooth sand in front of us, just waiting for volleyball season, but over there, a bit to the east, a great spill of rocks.

They guard the entrance to False Creek, which in turn leads the eye on across the water to Sunset Beach and the towers of West Vancouver.

Drop eyes instead to our own toes, and the reward is the interplay of seaweed, gritty sand, mussel shells and the angles and colours of each individual rock.

We backtrack throughVanier Park, drawn by the shrouded boats and bright Blue Cabin, all tucked up in Heritage Harbour.

This is the free, outdoors, floating component of the adjacent Vancouver Maritime Museum, offering a curated collection of vintage wooden boats and currently also hosting the Blue Cabin arts residency program.

We prowl each walkway, peer into the tent sheltering a restoration project…

and compensate for mostly shrouded boats by at least reading their historical signage…

and enjoying the dance between red bumper balls and glittering shafts of open water.

Counting on sunshine (though well-bundled in winter clothing), I set out for a planned morning walk. This one will set off from Tsawwassen, in the City of Delta, and our rendezvous is the St. George SkyTrain station in the neighbouring City of Surrey.

The angles and brilliance of the building right next to the station…

are in dramatic contrast to the flowing lines, and the very different brilliance, of our chosen trail.

We’ve just taken the 12th Ave. entrance to the Dyke Trail, in Boundary Bay Regional Park.

This is a great, long curving ribbon of a park, all along the curve of Boundary Bay itself, and we’re here for the curl at the Tsawwassen end of that ribbon, looping south to Centennial Beach and around. We decide to walk out along the dyke, and then return on the Raptor Trail, in behind the dunes.

Plum blossoms here too, this time paired with the rough gold of winter fields rather than the emerald of winter moss on trees.

We’re nowhere near the Raptor Trail, not yet, but we meet one anyway — a juvenile Bald Eagle, peacefully contemplating life down by the water.

He’s not eating anything, he’s not doing anything, and he has no interest in any of us.

We are all extremely interested in him, however! People point, murmur, pass news about him one to another all along the trail. Farther on, a woman comfortably snugged down in a hollow, cradling the great long telephoto lens of a true twitcher, assures us she has already seen him, photographed him, and is now more interested in all those Black Oystercatchers at this end of the trail. (We turn our own attention to Oystercatchers for a while, glad that someone has identified them for us.)

We pivot at Centennial Beach, turning inland slightly, in between sand dunes, to join the Raptor Trail. Right on cue, a Coopers Hawk, silhouetted against the clouds.

Good grief, it is windy. And, good grief, that makes it so much colder! Little giggles of delight when, just for a moment, the wind quits smacking us around. My companion wishes he’d brought his tuque; I am smug with the earflaps down on my winter hat.

But no complaints. It is a glorious day. and the nip in the air puts that much more snap, that much more energy, in our walk.

A pause to admire this elegant Great Blue Heron, so very vertical…

and the Mallard in the adjacent rivulet, so very horizontal.

Another pause, for the exuberance of this tree, throwing its branches at the sky…

and a final pause, a giggle, a poke in each other’s ribs, at the very different mood evoked by these trees…

knocked crooked and proof that there are some very industrious beaver in the area.

Time for lunch. We set off, chattering about all we’ve seen and agreeing that we’ve had huge good luck with the weather.

(Still needles of rain, as I finish this post, and by now only 3C and heading on down the scale.)

Line & Light… & Magic

8 February 2026 – I thought line & light were already magic. Then came the surprise.

The first “line” is, literally, a line-up.

I’m walking north on Quebec, and I see what is surely the year’s first sidewalk line-up for a cone from Earnest Ice Cream.

I almost join the line; don’t; almost turn back to join the line when I see this fellow ahead of me enjoying his cone so very much.

But I don’t. I walk on down to False Creek.

Where quite different lines greet me — racing shell pods just this side of the Olympic Dock, their vertical above/below lines bisected by the horizontal line of the water. And, bouncing all around, scattershot rays of sunlight.

Anchoring the east end of False Creek, more lines — all those triangles that slot together to make Science World’s big round geodesic dome. Plus sunlight, playing favourites with a few of the facets.

My eye is in for the rectilinear. Then I get distracted by this evergreen.

Nature doesn’t do rectilinear! But, lines are lines. Just… different lines. And still the bounce of light, above, behind, and filtering through.

Back to the rectilinear…

and back to nature.

The silhouette of the crow, the curve of the branches; everything drenched in light.

I turn south along the little creek that flows through Hinge Park. There has been some reed-clearing here, I think, creating a more defined line through the water. I learn on the railing, watch ducks paddle their rounded lines through all those verticals, real and reflected.

And then… and then I realize I’ve just cocked my head, probably pulled a quizzical face.

What is that sound? Faint tappings, rhythmic, and, even fainter, the crooning of an almost subliminal voice.

I follow my ears on down the creek-side path. Then I see it. A bit farther south, spanning the creek. The industrial pipe cum “railway engine” cum pedestrian bridge…

cum percussive instrument.

Thanks to the three people sitting on top.

I am enchanted. Look! A boy at one end, a couple of 20-somethings at the other; all three tapping sticks against the metal, woven into each other and into the recorded soprano vocal line that inspires them.

The young men remain seated. The boy moves around, explores other surfaces.

He braces against the “smoke stack”…

and then, sure-footed, turns to make it his own next musical instrument.

I lean there until the music ends. The boy disappears down thriough one off the cut-outs, obedient to his mother’s call. The young men notice me, and wave. I applaud, then tap my heart. They tap their hearts, and throw their arms wide in my direction. I throw my arms wide, right back at them. We beam at each other.

Magic.

“Heritage”… and Heritage

17 August 2024 – Nothing as grand as the slippery nature of abstract nouns is on my mind. Not even the nature of heritage, within that slippery world.

I’ve simply decided to go look at the very specific, very tangible, very proper-noun Barclay Heritage Square that I’ve just noticed to the right of the caption WEST END on my Downtown Vancouver Walking Map. My route develops from there. I continue down Nicola to English Bay and along the Seawall to (bottom-centre of map) the David Lam Dock on False Creek.

It’s only after all that, that I have my moment of linguistic/philosophical fuss about the meaning of words.

Back to the beginning.

I’m at Broughton & Haro, north-east corner of Barclay Heritage Square, an enclave designated under the National Trust for Canada that preserves 12 Edwardian-era homes and woods in combination with an adjacent City park.

The houses are lived in…

and the woodland now contains a children’s playground, used by residents…

as well as families from the modern condo towers you can see in the background — the kind of towers now increasingly dominant in the West End environment.

For no particular reason, I make Nicola my route on south to the water. It rewards me immediately. I’m already a fan of Little Free Library kiosks & their unofficial equivalents, so I gurgle happily at the sight of this Pet Food Pantry, just past Barclay.

Wet & tinned dog & cat food are welcome donations, ditto dog & cat toys and accessories, but please nothing large and nothing for other small animals: “We don’t have the space.”

One more block, and here’s the Vancouver Mural Festival 2020 tribute (by Annie Chen & Carson Ting) to Joe Fortes, the City’s first official lifeguard.

In 1986 he was also named Vancouver’s Citizen of the Century by the Vancouver Historical Society, and for good cause — a Trinidadian immigrant, Fortes spent years unofficially guarding the beach and rescuing people before receiving the official appointment.

The Nelson-to-Comox block down Nicola is friendly underfoot…

and bright with flowers on vintage apartment balconies overhead.

The day grows steadily warmer. I am ever more appreciative of the shade offered by street-side trees, sometimes combined with lush ferns, as in this display near Pendrell…

and sometimes high over bare earth, as in this half-block interruption of Nicola’s vehicular status between Pendrell and See-em-ia Lane.

Yet even barren like this, it is a welcome space, a little spot just for people, very neighbourhood. The lane title is part of the charm: like other area lanes, it honours area history, in this case Mary See-em-ia, granddaughter of Chief Joe Capilano and a Squamish Nation matriarch.

A reminder as I cross Davie Street of real-estate trends…

and later a reminder, down at Harwood, of developer/cultural handshakes, here in the form of this Beyond the Mountains mural commissioned by the builder from Heiltsuk artist KC Hall.

On downhill to the water. I’m now at the foot of Nicola, about to emerge onto Beach Avenue, bordering Second Beach.

Apartments of various eras face the water, dozing in the afternoon sun…

and “open-air museum” installations, courtesy of the Vancouver Biennale, are as much part of the beach scenery as flowers, palm trees and sand.

I first pass Dennis Oppenheim’s Engagement

and then, as I walk east along the Seawall…

I come to my all-time favourite, Bernar Venet’s 217.5 Arc X 13.

Not much shade, here on the Seawall.

I pause under handy palm trees to cool off, agree with a bemused pair of Austrian tourists that outdoor palms are somehow not what we expect to see in Canada…

loiter under the next cluster of friendly palms to watch a mother finally tear her toddler away from these lifeboats and lead the child on down to the water…

and then buy myself a rum & raisin waffle cone at the Sunset Beach concession stand…

and find yet more shade in which to enjoy it.

I even manage to eat it all without dribbling any down my arm. (Live long enough, and you acquire a few Life Skills.)

Enough blazing sunshine. I forsake the Seawall to climb uphill to Beach Ave. and the shade offered by its trees. It gives me a distant view of Squamish artist Chrystal Sparrow’s mural on the Sunset Beach sport court, currently being repainted…

and a close-up of the mossy walls of the Vancouver Aquatic Centre as I carry on east.

But then, somewhere between George Wainborn Park and David Lam Park — bottom-centre of that first Walking Map image, if you care to scroll back up — I return to the Seawall and False Creek.

Where I am first amused by this tiny, very unofficial, birdhouse hanging from an official Seawall tree…

and soon afterwards hopeful of a ferry ride home from the David Lam Dock.

Look at this: two ferries converging on the dock (left & right, the rival Aquabus and False Creek lines respectively), eager to pick me up.

But, no, we are at cross-purposes. I want east; they are both headed west to Granville Island.

They assure me an east-bound boat will come by soon. One does. It then steers a slow zigzag route, meeting rider needs — which gives me time to think about “heritage.”

What counts, what doesn’t? In today’s walk, did only the very official and historically designated Barclay Heritage Square count? Or all of it?

The online Cambridge Dictionary gives me the answer I realize I want: heritage consists of “features belonging to the culture of a particular society.”

Yes. With that kind of latitude, it all counts.

From the designated Edwardian homes to the Fortes mural to “hi” on a sidewalk and a Pet Food Pantry; from ice cream and real-estate trends and Biennale art to lifeboats and palm trees and a silly little birdhouse and rival ferry lines.

All of it.

  • WALKING… & SEEING

    "Traveller, there is no path. Paths are made by walking" -- Antonio Machado (1875-1939)

    "The voyage of discovery is not in seeking new landscapes, but in having new eyes" -- Marcel Proust (1871-1922)

    "A city is a language, a repository of possibilities, and walking is the act of speaking that language, of selecting from those possibilities" -- Rebecca Solnit, "Wanderlust: A History of Walking"

  • Recent Posts

  • Walk, Talk, Rock… B.C.-style

  • Post Categories

  • Archives

  • Blog Stats

    • 131,638 hits
  • Since 14 August 2014

    Flag Counter
  • Enter your email address to follow this blog and receive notifications of new posts by email.

    Join 2,051 other subscribers